Messages

766

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Dust collector problem

« on: August 05, 2012, 11:58:22 am »

I think that your top filter bag needs a good cleaning. Take it off, take it out side and give it a GOOD shaking, turn it inside out and shake it some more. Maybe use the shop vac to suck some of the dust off of it and re-install. See if it doesn't "breathe" better.
Just an idea that has helped me from time to time.

Rog

767

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: dw7881 worklight need a replacment bulb

« on: August 02, 2012, 10:36:20 pm »

Cyberghost,
Take a look at the attached chart.  The bulb for the Dewalt 788 is an "intermediate" style base, circled on the chart.  Any bulb with that style base will fit and work safely on your saw as long as that bulb uses no more than 25 watts.   Don't concern yourself with the "Type S" labelling, what you want is the "intermediate" base.  The wattage is what can cause a fire, such as using a 100w bulb in a 40w fixture.  The 100w bulb would generate too much heat for the fixture to handle.  

To me, a 25w bulb just isn't bright enough, so I switched the supplied 25w incandescent bulb with a 13w compact fluorescent (CFL) bulb.  A 13w CFL puts out light equivalent to a 60w incandescent bulb.  So, for less power consumption (13w vs. 25w) you get almost 3 times as much light.  However, that still wasn't bright enough for me, so I've put two swing arm style lights over my saw, each loaded with a 23w CFL bulb putting 5000k light.  The 23w CFL each put out light equivalent to a 100w incandescent bulb, and at 5000k, its nice bright, white, light.  With both lights on, the table of my saw looks like an operating table!  Some might not like it that bright, but I love it!

Hope this helps!

I'm going to have cataract surgery this month.   

Rog

768

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: dw7881 worklight need a replacment bulb

« on: August 02, 2012, 09:55:11 am »

I get mine at Ace Hardware Store. Part number 3019817. Description "Accent Floodlight" 25W....1 R14 bulb.
They seem to work very well and last a long time (a year so far).

Rog

769

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Whirligig question

« on: July 31, 2012, 11:30:01 am »

I just finished a "Whirligig" last week. I got some "Yard & Garden" acrylic paint at Hobby Lobby made by "Anita's". It is water based also. Two coats and then sprayed a top coat of polyurethane clear over the paint. I have no idea how well it will hold up as I've never used it before. I may never know as it is a gift to a fundraising auction.  

Rog

P.S. I cut my project from construction grade plywood. 3/4" for the main part and 1/4" for the wings. May be another problem for me. 

770

The Coffee Shop / Re: Have you ever asked your wife or S.O....."What took you so LONG?"

« on: July 25, 2012, 10:51:34 am »

I want to know how or why GB is so well informed on this subject?..........

Rog

771

The Coffee Shop / Re: Giving Credit for Patterns

« on: July 19, 2012, 10:32:45 am »

I sign and date everything I make in a very obscure place. Sometimes I sign them before they are done. Like the inside of a vase before the final glue up. If it is furniture (like some small rocking chairs that I made for my grand kids) I will sign on the bottom in such a way as it would be impossible to do after it was finished.
I don't put a designers name on it because I seldom use patterns from others. I might use ideas or suggestions that I see in someone else's work though.

Rog

PS if you use shellac (like I do) sign in pencil or engraver or wood burn it in. Ink will smear with some finishes.

772

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Bowl problems

« on: July 18, 2012, 08:54:47 pm »

I have made a lot of vases, bowls, mugs and pitchers and never had a problem of them "falling apart". I have used all kinds of wood including red oak and all thicknesses of wood.
I always used Titebond II wood glue except for the mugs and pitchers that may have liquid put in them and then I use Titebond III for the water proof feature of that glue.
One thing that might help if you are making bowls is a "bowl press" for gluing. Please find a copy of "Wooden Bowls from the Scroll Saw" written by Carole Rothman. It not only shows you how to make the press, it has a BUNCH of designs and ideas for you to use. If your local library does not have a copy of this book, it can be purchased from Fox Chapel Publishing for $19.95 plus shipping. (anyway that is what I paid on 10/2/2009 for a total of $24.22.) and is worth twice that price.
Anyway have FUN and make some beautiful vases and bowls.

Rog

773

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: band saw

« on: July 15, 2012, 11:54:04 am »

If you didn't need it and won't use it, you wasted your money. If you did need it and are going to use it, it doesn't matter what you paid for it.

Rog

774

The Coffee Shop / Re: HOW HOT is it in the MidWest?

« on: June 27, 2012, 03:17:08 pm »

So where in mid-Kansas are you?

~~~GB~~~

GB, I live in Hutchinson Ks. about 50 miles northwest of Wichita....between Yoder and Medoria. 

Rog

PS That Yoder/Medoria comment was just a joke. You need a real good map to know where they are.  Less than 150 population in each town.. 

775

The Coffee Shop / Re: HOW HOT is it in the MidWest?

« on: June 26, 2012, 10:48:30 am »

I'm in the middle of Kansas (about as "Mid West" as you can get in my opinion) and it was 111 degrees here yesterday.
People are literally baking cookies on the dashboards of cars!
I'll have to drive around and look at the corn fields to see if your cartoon is correct. 

Rog

776

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: ZOTS

« on: June 22, 2012, 09:59:08 am »

I use the two sided carpet tape to hold things in place. I get mine at Ace Hardware and buy the cheap paper backed tape (not the cloth backed). The cheaper stuff is easier to separate but still works OK.  When removing the layers of the stack, use a heat gun or hair dryer or mineral spirits to release the tape.

Rog

777

The Coffee Shop / Re: Sore Nanna

« on: June 21, 2012, 06:46:33 pm »

I did exactly the same thing about 5 years ago. I did mine in the shop, landed on concrete and did not bounce either. I broke the ball joint off the end of my leg  bone in the hip. Spent a week in hospital and got a new titanium joint. I still count myself lucky because my head just missed the edge of the work bench by about 2" or I wouldn't be writing this
Getting old ain't for wimps.  

Rog

778

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Stack Cutting Question

« on: June 21, 2012, 09:43:47 am »

I would simply cut the center of the "P" first and set it aside and then cut the outer shape second. Or am I missing something about your problem?
How are you holding the stack together? I use double sided carpet tape most of the time. (The cheap stuff that is easier to come apart.)

Rog

779

The Coffee Shop / Re: Im in trouble now...

« on: June 17, 2012, 01:44:38 pm »

I agree with Sheila, buy her a brand new scroll saw for her birthday, annaversary, Valentines, Christmas, or what ever day (Your choice) and let her enjoy the fun!

Rog

780

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Staining Pine

« on: June 16, 2012, 09:34:41 am »

I might suggest that on pine or any other open grain wood (poplar also) that you give it a thin coat of shellac before staining. Shellac dries fairly fast so it is no big deal. I buy my Zinsser "Bulls Eye" shellac at Lowe's and cut it 50/50 with denatured alcohol to make a 1# cut and brush it on with a cheap foam brush. It usually drys in 5 to 10 minutes. Then wipe the stain on with a folded paper towel. If you need to get the stain down inside the cuts, you can use a small water color brush or even a cotton swab where it doesn't just flow into the small, tight areas.
If you don't use a sealer of some kind, the open grained woods tend to blotch and have a lot of dark spots in odd areas (especially end grain. I have made a poplar blanket chest look like walnut to the untrained eye.) and then just apply the final finish however you want to.

Rog