Messages

76

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Blade pots

« on: November 24, 2015, 03:06:11 pm »

I have this set of blade storage tubes from Sloan's.
http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm  (near the bottom of the page)

I made a 2 tiered holder for them out of some scrap.  I'm thinking I need to buy another set because I have too many sizes and types of blades now.

77

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: dewalt 788 type 2

« on: November 24, 2015, 03:00:20 pm »

Mine is a type 2 that I've had for at least 10 years.  I didn't know of all the problems until after I had used it for some time, then I started reading poor reviews on the forums.  I nervously waited for mine to develop some of the reported issues, but other than the flaky on/off switch, mine has been pretty much trouble free.  I don't think having a type 2 was ever a guarantee that you would have problems, just like having a type 1 never meant you would be immune to them.  Our club owns a type 1 and I wouldn't trade 2 of them for my type 2.  I don't like the way that particular saw cuts and if I had used it before I bought mine, I probably would not have bought a DeWalt in the first place.  That said, I think the issues were/are real and would prefer to test drive a new DeWalt before plunking down the cash to buy one.  If I were buying a new saw today to replace my DeWalt, I would probably lean very heavily toward an Excalibur.  JMHO

78

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: dip coating with shellac - the easy finish

« on: April 07, 2012, 07:45:08 pm »

Hi Torsten,

That's an interesting process.  I use shellac often, but I typically spray it.  I've never considered it for dipping.  I may have to give that a try.

I do have one question regarding your use of isopropanol alcohol as the solvent for shellac.  In the States, the isopropanol alcohol (or isopropyl, sometimes referred to as rubbing alcohol) that is commonly available at the pharmacy has too much water in it to use with shellac.  Denatured alcohol is the recommended solvent here.

79

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Looking into buying a router table?

« on: March 30, 2012, 03:03:06 pm »

That does look like a decent set-up.  One thing I don't like about it, though, is the way the legs on the stand are splayed at compound angles, it would be difficult (but not impossible) to close it in to create storage space for bits, jigs, accessories, etc..  Otherwise looks like a lot of features for the money. 

80

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Spindle Sanders

« on: March 30, 2012, 02:53:51 pm »

I have the Ridgid as well.  Bought it several years ago, based on the positive recommendations it received on the various woodworking forums I frequent.  To this day, it still gets positive reviews just about every time this subject comes up.  It's not the heaviest duty tool out there, but it's quite popular due to its versatility and ease of use.

81

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: BLO/Mineral Spirits

« on: March 25, 2012, 10:48:38 am »

Pat,

One thing to keep in mind.  BLO and mineral oil are quite different.  BLO has ingredients added to it so that it will dry.  Mineral oil doesn't, so technically speaking it doesn't dry (cure) in the same sense as we understand other wood finishes to dry.  This would significantly lengthen the period of time between application of the mineral oil and the topcoat.  Personally, I would probably avoid using mineral oil underneath another curing finish.  There is potential there for compatibility issues.  I've never tried it myself and I couldn't find any information in any of my resource books regarding the use of mineral oil under a film finish.  Others may have had success using it in this manner, but I think there are other options that would pose less risk of finish failure at some point down the road.

Mineral oil is typically used for wooden items that come in contact with food, such as bowls, cutting boards, utensils, etc.  It is food safe and not topcoated with any other product in these particular applications.

82

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Drilling Holes In The Middle

« on: March 17, 2012, 11:51:03 am »

I have a Dremel drill press stand.  While the throat depth is pretty small, you can spin the Dremel around 180 degrees and get unlimited capacity.  You have to hang on to the base as it will tip a little when set up this way, but it works.

I think if I had it to do over again, I would use the Dremel plunge router base instead.  Better stability and complete accessibility to any spot on the board.

83

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Question about glueing - II

« on: March 15, 2012, 10:10:37 am »

I was thinking along those lines.  Spray application would seem to be ideal and rolling it to even it out would make it even better.

Do you have any issues with overspray getting in the inside cuts?  I would think this would only be a problem if it interfered with stain or finish in these areas.  What has been your experience?

84

General Scroll Saw Talk / Question about glueing - II

« on: March 15, 2012, 09:50:58 am »

A member of our scrollsaw club is a relative beginner, but has jumped right in to doing a lot of portraits.  Sometimes he enlarges them, which makes for a lot of surface area to glue when attaching backer boards.  He's struggling to place glue in all the necessary areas and get the portrait positioned on the backer before the glue starts to dry.

For large, very detailed portraits, what techniques do you folks use to spread glue evenly and quickly over the piece, without getting too much on, but still managing to get some glue on all those tiny, fragile parts?  I wondered if perhaps a j-roller would work, but have never tried it and hesitate to suggest it for fear it would just create a huge mess. 

Any tips and suggestions?

Thanks!

85

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Lemon Oil

« on: March 14, 2012, 08:34:05 pm »

Hey Bill, Our fearless leader Steve Good uses and recommends lemon oil. That's why you hear a lot about it here.

Yes, I was aware of that.  I had read some of Steve's blog entries regarding his use of lemon oil.  I came away with the impression that other then liking the way it looked, even he didn't make a really strong case for using it.

I think part of the problem is defining just what lemon oil is.  Some folks tend to get it mixed up with things like Lemon Pledge or other products that contain stuff like silicone and petroleum distillates and aren't really finishes at all, just a temporary polish.  I'm skeptical of products that have lemon oil in their name but may or may not actually contain any real lemon oil.  Finishing manufacturers engage in misleading marketing all the time.  Just like with those products called tung oil finishes that contain no actual tung oil.  I'm a firm believer that people should have an understanding of the finishes they use on their projects, the benefits and the limitations.  At the very least, it helps avoid disappointment and perhaps might prevent us from ruining a project.

I'm not against using it( if I understood what "it" was) and certainly don't want to come off as being critical of anyone who does.  I'm always interested in learning of new finish products and techniques.  I first heard of lemon oil from a couple folks in my scroll saw club and when I asked them about it, they pointed me to this site, saying Steve used it.  Then I read a number of posts and Steve's blog entries, but was still left wanting more definitive information.  I did some of my own research on the web as well as in a couple highly regarded finishing books by Jewitt and Flexner.  I can't say I've found much of anything that makes a strong case for it.

I apologize for the long-winded response and I'm sorry if I've offended any lemon oil proponents.  I'll listen to anyone who wants to defend it and am quite willing to be taken to school, if someone can just explain it to me.   

86

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Lemon Oil

« on: March 14, 2012, 04:22:38 pm »

Quite frankly, I've never quite understood the attraction of lemon oil as a finish.  I realize that there are a number of folks out there that use it successfully, but like Dan, I prefer boiled linseed oil.  I've tried reading up on it, to see what it is that I'm missing.  Not a lot of info out there and some of what is out there can be misleading and contradictory.  I'm just not sure what benefits lemon oil brings to the party.

87

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Boiled Linseed oil mix

« on: March 14, 2012, 04:12:37 pm »

Nice write up Dan! 

I use BLO in very much the same way. 

To get a slightly more protective finish, one can also mix BLO with mineral spirits and varnish (or polyurethane) in roughly equal proportions to make their own Danish oil recipe.

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General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Joining wood panels

« on: March 14, 2012, 04:04:05 pm »

I've successfully edge glued boards down to 1/4" thick to make wider panels.  Your edges need to be perfectly square, so that the piece remains flat when glued.  Also, don't overdo it with clamping pressure, or you will bow the panel.  Take care to match up the grain as best you can and be sure to get the edges flush.  You can use clamping cauls to help hold everything flat until the glue dries. Done well, a panel glue-up from multiple boards can be indistinguishable from a solid panel.

89

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Performax 16" scroll saw

« on: February 22, 2012, 08:01:15 am »

I was wandering around Lowes and took a look at the Skil 3335-01 scroll saw.  It looks to be pretty much a clone of the Performax.  If anyone has any experience with the Skil, I presume similar could be expected from the Performax.  I read some of the on-line reviews for the Skil and they were all over the place, not sure how helpful they were.

I'm still debating whether or not to invest in the clamp upgrade from Pozsgai's Designs.  I suppose I should put a blade in this thing and fire it up to see how bad the vibration is.  That will likely be the deciding factor as to whether I bother with this saw or not.

Thanks!

90

General Scroll Saw Talk / Performax 16" scroll saw

« on: February 21, 2012, 04:35:41 pm »

I was given one of these to use as a traveling demo/student unit.  The manual says that it uses pin end blades only.  I've looked it over a bit and I think that it possibly could accept plain end blades as well, but it isn't really well designed for it.

My question for you folks, Is anyone here familiar with this saw?  I'm considering a clamp conversion kit from Pozsgai's Designs to upgrade the clamps, but I'm wondering if it's worth it?  I'm not trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, just trying to find out of I can reasonably expect this thing to be a serviceable machine to use in a scroll saw class.  If anyone could share their experiences, good or bad, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!