Messages

646

The Coffee Shop / Re: Super Bowel

« on: February 04, 2013, 06:40:16 pm »

Marg, you should know better by now!!!  your daughter doesn't watch sport because she likes it, she is looking at the men playing it !!!!!

They are all millionaires you know!   

Rog

647

The Coffee Shop / Re: Super Bowel

« on: February 03, 2013, 12:16:18 pm »

The Super bowl will be on my TV. I won't watch the game though, just the commercials. 

Believe it or not, that takes some training to do. I'm so used to getting up for a snack or go to the bathroom during commercials when watching a normal TV show and I do those things during the game so I can see the latest multi million dollar, 30 second ads for this game.    And, I'm sure there will be a lot of them to see too! 

Rog

648

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: easy rustic finish

« on: February 02, 2013, 06:28:04 pm »

I have found that to be true also. White vinegar does not work. However I recently read that if you use water and steel wool and add a little vinegar to the water, it speeds up the rusting which is really what is happening. My first batch, I used apple cider vinegar and after a week I stirred it with a scrap of red oak and the wood turned black almost instantly!
I am currently experimenting with coffee and black tea. The coffee did stain poplar but, not very dark and the black tea is kind of like putting water on the wood. I tried the tea first (trying to add tannins to the wood) and then the cider/steel wool on top of that and it darkened quite a bit but I didn't get any grain out of the wood at all. I was using poplar and it didn't really have much grain anyway. I was making a picture frame and it turned out looking like I had just painted it brown. 

Rog 

649

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: The baskets from Colombia

« on: February 02, 2013, 06:00:08 pm »

The angle of the cut depends a lot on the thickness of the wood and what depth you want to cut and the blade you are using. It is somewhat like cutting the rings for a bowl or vase. About the only way to find the exact angle is to do a few practice cuts on scrap. Once you have found the angle that works for you, write it down  and be sure to include the thickness of the wood (3/4"). the blade used (FD #5)  and maybe even the type of wood (oak) for future use.
Some times if I want a large, shallow bowl out of 3/4" cherry, I use as much as 45 degrees and a much wider spacing between cuts. On the other hand, if I want a tall vase out of 3/4" cherry, I use a much shallower angle  like 20 degrees and can use narrower spacing between cuts.
This project, the spiral cutting, takes more guessing (especially doing it freehand)  so I suggest a practice cut or two using the same thickness of wood and getting used to keeping the same distance between cuts as you go.
What this all boils down to is........ IT AIN'T AS EASY AS IT LOOKS!  

Rog

650

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Be Mine Box

« on: January 30, 2013, 10:08:51 pm »

Roger, I'm just curious, you said in your last post that Cherry burns very easily...I use a lot of cherry and dont have that much problem with it burning. what size blade are you using?

To be honest, I don't remember what blade I used, I cut those boxes about three years ago. I'm guessing that I used either a #9 or #10 blade because of the thickness of the wood and gentle curves the box has. But, I will tell you this, I have burned cherry wood with just about every power saw I own and even with a hole saw on the drill press. I have cut cherry with a jig saw, a table say, a scroll saw, and a miter saw, and  I get some burning in places almost every time. It usually isn't much and not hard to sand off but, I do remember that on these boxes I got absolutely charred wood in places because the blade could not get the dust out of the way because of the thickness of the wood. I made a dinning room table out of cherry and there was some burning when I used my table saw. Cherry wood just won't take much heat at all but, it sure looks nice when it is finished and after it has set in the sun for a year or so. It gets darker from the UV rays regardless of the finish you put on it.
If you have never burned cherry, you haven't cut it very much. 

Rog

PS I hope you realize that last smart @$$ remark was meant to be funny and teasing not mean.     

651

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Be Mine Box

« on: January 30, 2013, 01:15:47 pm »

I have made three of those boxes for my granddaughters. I made them out of 2" thick cherry and made the tops and bottoms out of 1/4" purple heart. I do NOT recommend any one (especially newbies) using these woods for this project. They looked nice and I was happy with them but, it took A LOT of clean-up and sanding to get them to that point. Cherry burns very easy  at best but, when it is an honest 2" thick, it is a real BEAR CAT and takes for ever to cut. Purple heart is not only messy (purple saw dust EVERYWHERE) and splinters at the drop of a hat and being oily needs to be cleaned with thinner before gluing.
It is a very nice project and fun to make but, just be careful about the thickness and types of wood you use.




Rog

652

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Advice on Used Scroll Saw Purchase

« on: January 30, 2013, 12:49:33 pm »

I must go against the grain here. In spite of the suggestions of "Buy new it's worth it." and my own admonishment of "You get what you pay for.", I would at least go look at the used saw. (it is a local saw isn't it?) You might be able to get the price down a little and if you can meet the seller, you might get an idea of his honesty and integrity and a much better idea of the saw's condition. Ask if you can try it out for a few minutes to get a feel of it's condition. 
I have sold two saws in the past and tried to be honest with the purchaser. On the first one, I told the guy that it was NOT a good saw to keep around for long but, it might help him decide if he was interested in scrolling or not. I had ask for $50.00 but expected to take less (a lot less) but the buyer was satisfied with the price and bought it. The second saw, I sold to a good friend for $100.00 and explained and showed him the differences between the Delta and my new DeWalt saw and again told him that it was a good starter saw but, if he really "got into scrolling" he might want to move up to a better saw in a year or so.
I live in the back woods of Kansas (I have yet to find the woods however.) and we tend to have a bit more faith in others when buying and selling used items.  This attitude could spread to other areas around the country however. 

Rog

653

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: valentines day gifts?

« on: January 29, 2013, 09:02:56 pm »

I get my wife the same thing every year. Her words after she receives the gift just give me a warm feeling all over. That is why I give her a box of Tide and a new laundry basket.
GREAT!!! JUST WHAT I WANTED

I am such a romantic

I thought EVERYONE enjoyed new tools!!   

Rog

654

The Coffee Shop / Re: How I Got Started In the Hobby Of Scrolling

« on: January 27, 2013, 01:28:13 pm »

I was still working as a mobile tool salesman (MAC Tools) and working 10 hours a day. I had to give up Go Kart racing as a hobby due to lack of free time    but, I needed a hobby just to get my mind off of work once in a while. I thought wood working of some sort would fill the bill for me but, it had to be on a small scale due to lack of space. (My  "shop" was full of tool boxes and tools)  
I bought my first scroll saw from Ace hardware, it was a "Tradesman" brand and cost $100.00. I used it for about 2 years and vibrated like mad and used pin end blades only. Looking at some of the projects now, that I cut with it really surprises me how well I did with that piece of junk.
I had a customer that had gotten into scrolling about that time and he told me that he had bought a new saw and I should come over and try it. It was a "Delta" and used plain end blades and was a lot smoother than mine and easier to use. I left his house, went straight to Lowe's, and plunked down the $200.00 for my own saw!
I sold the Tradesman at a yard sale for $50.00.  
I was as happy as a clam for two or more years and then I found the Steve Good Blog and as he recommended and used the DeWalt saw, I just had to get one.  
I retired from business, broke a hip and finally I went over to Springfield Mo. for vacation and got one from Grizzly. It was $500.00 with stand and light and am still using that Yeller saw. That was seven years ago!    I sold the Delta to a friend for$100.00.
Over the years I have added a lot of wood working tools and have expanded the size of my projects since all the mechanics tools are gone now.  
I don't "scroll" as much as I used to but, I still use the DeWalt quite often and it comes in handy for more things than you might expect.

Rog  

655

The Coffee Shop / Re: useless knowlege

« on: January 27, 2013, 12:25:16 pm »

My wife told me that she had lost five pounds so I told her to turn around because "I think I've found it!" 

Rog

656

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Tilt-O-Scroll

« on: January 26, 2013, 04:06:09 pm »

DARN!!!! Why didn't I think of that!   I LOVE your idea!  
My saw is on the standard DeWalt stand so, in order to do that I would have to build another stand but, it just might be worth it.
I have made a lot of bowls  and vases over the years and have always struggled with the "table tilt" and never once thought to do what you have done.   I really like that.    
Keep thinking "Outside the lines".

Rog

657

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Balde TPI and saw speed

« on: January 25, 2013, 11:13:52 pm »

TPI and blade thickness as  well as speed all depend on wood thickness and type of wood (hard or soft) , what type of project you are cutting and what you get used to.
What ever works for you is the ONLY way to fly....er cut in this case. If you are happy, I'm thrilled to death.

Rog

658

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Cutting thin plywood

« on: January 25, 2013, 11:05:52 pm »

Use a good quality 40 to 60 tooth carbide tipped blade and a zero clearance insert to minimize splintering. A piece of scrap board underneath will help as well  as the masking tape.

Thanks old wormy, for mentioning the ZCI. I did not think of that because I have been using one in my saw for so long that I don't think about anyone NOT knowing about them. I make my own and have several for dado blades and even one for 45 degree cuts. They sure do help with tear out on most any thickness of wood. Another thing that helps a lot is a miter sled with a zero clearance slot in it. A bottom "scrap" piece would help a lot also, as you mentioned.
As far as blades for plywood though (especially thinner stuff) I would recommend as many teeth as you can get. Right now, I'm using an 80 tooth blade since I wore out my 100 tooth "nibbler".

Rog

659

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Cutting thin plywood

« on: January 25, 2013, 04:37:55 pm »

If you have a reasonable saw and a fairly new and sharp plywood blade, I'm guessing that it is more the fault of the wood and not necessarily the saw, blade, or you.
1/8" wood can present some problems anyway but, are you sure that it is wood all the way through or do you maybe have some of that cheap stuff with foam core in it? The cheap plywood is only three layers thick and the center (thicker) layer is not wood even though to outsides look very nice. The outer skins of that cheaper "plywood" are very thin and can even be sanded through without much trouble.
I hate to say it again but, "you get what you pay for" and your quality depends on the materials used as well as your skill and finishing techniques.

Rog

660

The Coffee Shop / Re: Guns

« on: January 21, 2013, 10:11:15 am »

As far as assault rifles go.....
I heard a comedian say "If you need a full automatic rifle and a hundred rounds of ammo to kill a deer or hit a target, you need to change hobbies!" 
I kind of agree with him but, by the same token, I don't agree that American's should be restricted from owning anything they can afford or want.
My real thing is "We do not need any more laws at all. If we cant live by the original ten, we are in real trouble any way."

Rog