616
The Coffee Shop / Re: I know I'm not the only one
« on: March 17, 2013, 11:09:25 am »
I'm old enough to realize that "This too shall pass" so I went and took a nap. 
Rog
Rog
News: Had a couple issues with the forum today. 1/19/2017. I believe I have them corrected now. Let me know if you have any trouble. Thanks.
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617
The Coffee Shop / Re: Lest see where this goes.
« on: March 13, 2013, 05:30:36 pm »
You could tell she was a farmers daughter because all the horsemen knew her.
Rog
Rog
618
The Coffee Shop / Re: The Winter Boots
« on: March 08, 2013, 10:22:52 am »
I AM LAUGHING OUT LOUD ON THAT ONE!!!!!
Rog
Rog
619
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Red Spot on Stained Wood
« on: March 07, 2013, 10:59:19 am »
Tony,
Are you putting a coat of 1# cut shellac on the wood first? Pine is very prone to blotching when using stain but, I've never seen a RED spot before and the shellac will seal the pores to prevent blotching. It very well could be that the stain is old or not mixed very well. I can see where walnut stain would have some red dye in it that may be separating from the other stuff in the stain.
I have just about given up on stain for my projects (larger furniture items) I just can't get an even coat of stain even with shellac especially on the darker colors.
Rog
Are you putting a coat of 1# cut shellac on the wood first? Pine is very prone to blotching when using stain but, I've never seen a RED spot before and the shellac will seal the pores to prevent blotching. It very well could be that the stain is old or not mixed very well. I can see where walnut stain would have some red dye in it that may be separating from the other stuff in the stain.
I have just about given up on stain for my projects (larger furniture items) I just can't get an even coat of stain even with shellac especially on the darker colors.
Rog
620
Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Snug fit tapered wall box
« on: March 04, 2013, 08:16:43 pm »
EIEIO,
OK, I'll explain how I build those boxes. First, I'll admit that it takes more than a scroll saw. In my case, I also used a table saw (actually a band saw would work better but, I don't have one of those
) and a drill press.
I usually use a large, solid block of wood but, as you can see (looking at the striped box) I sometimes will glue up a blank of suitable dimensions. Once you have a blank squared up, (be sure to mark the side you want to be the top) slice off (re-saw) about 1/4" off the bottom using the table or band saw (try to keep track of at least one end of the block also) and 1/4" off the top. NOW, re-saw another 3/8" off of the "top side" of the block.
Drill four holes (one in each corner of the body of the box) about 3/8" from the sides and ends. I used a 3/4" forstner bit all the way through the body and then with the scroll saw, I cut from hole to hole and remove the center chunk and toss it.
Using the 3/8" slice and tilting the table of the scroll saw about 10 or 15 degrees, lay out and cut a line from the "front edge", along the sides to within 3/8" of the "back edge" so that the top face is about 3/8" wide and the bottom face is about 3/16" +/- wide and cut a square "U" out of the 3/8" slice. What your trying to do is make is a sliding dovetail joint for the top to slide into.
Now carefully re glue the bottom 1/4" back onto the body and the upper 3/8" around the top edge of the body along the outer edge of the top. Now glue the center piece of the 3/8" back to the top slice being careful that it lines up with the dovetail. I usually just assemble the box like it will be when finished and make sure that it slides open and closed easily before the glue is completely dry.
Sand smooth and finish as desired.
It now looks like a solid block of wood if the grain matches fairly close.
As for the magnets, rare earth magnets are very expensive for my taste's so, I just buy those little "push pin" looking things that are used on refrigerators and crack the plastic off and use the magnets. I use two magnets, one in the lid (top) at the front edge and one in the front of the body making sure that they line up and the pos./neg. line up. Those little magnets measure 3/16 in diameter and 3/16" in height so I use a 3/16" brad point bit to drill the holes for them and epoxy them in the holes.
I hope this helps some. If you would like a picture or two, I'll b happy to post some close-ups of a walnut one that I store my Tootsie Roll Pops in.
DARN! I,m long winded! I just hope some of that makes sense to you.
Rog
OK, I'll explain how I build those boxes. First, I'll admit that it takes more than a scroll saw. In my case, I also used a table saw (actually a band saw would work better but, I don't have one of those
) and a drill press. I usually use a large, solid block of wood but, as you can see (looking at the striped box) I sometimes will glue up a blank of suitable dimensions. Once you have a blank squared up, (be sure to mark the side you want to be the top) slice off (re-saw) about 1/4" off the bottom using the table or band saw (try to keep track of at least one end of the block also) and 1/4" off the top. NOW, re-saw another 3/8" off of the "top side" of the block.
Drill four holes (one in each corner of the body of the box) about 3/8" from the sides and ends. I used a 3/4" forstner bit all the way through the body and then with the scroll saw, I cut from hole to hole and remove the center chunk and toss it.
Using the 3/8" slice and tilting the table of the scroll saw about 10 or 15 degrees, lay out and cut a line from the "front edge", along the sides to within 3/8" of the "back edge" so that the top face is about 3/8" wide and the bottom face is about 3/16" +/- wide and cut a square "U" out of the 3/8" slice. What your trying to do is make is a sliding dovetail joint for the top to slide into.
Now carefully re glue the bottom 1/4" back onto the body and the upper 3/8" around the top edge of the body along the outer edge of the top. Now glue the center piece of the 3/8" back to the top slice being careful that it lines up with the dovetail. I usually just assemble the box like it will be when finished and make sure that it slides open and closed easily before the glue is completely dry.
Sand smooth and finish as desired.
It now looks like a solid block of wood if the grain matches fairly close.
As for the magnets, rare earth magnets are very expensive for my taste's so, I just buy those little "push pin" looking things that are used on refrigerators and crack the plastic off and use the magnets. I use two magnets, one in the lid (top) at the front edge and one in the front of the body making sure that they line up and the pos./neg. line up. Those little magnets measure 3/16 in diameter and 3/16" in height so I use a 3/16" brad point bit to drill the holes for them and epoxy them in the holes.
I hope this helps some. If you would like a picture or two, I'll b happy to post some close-ups of a walnut one that I store my Tootsie Roll Pops in.
DARN! I,m long winded! I just hope some of that makes sense to you.
Rog
621
Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Snug fit tapered wall box
« on: March 03, 2013, 05:59:19 pm »
I have made sliding lid boxes and held the lid closed using rare earth magnets to keep them from just sliding apart. You might try something like that on your liftoff lids too.
Just a suggestion.
Rog
Just a suggestion.
Rog
622
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Scroll Saw Light
« on: March 02, 2013, 03:59:45 pm »
I got mine at Ace hardware.
It is Ace branded, part number 3019817,Accent Floodlight, 1R14 bulb, 25 watt.
Don't remember the price but, it wasn't cheap for a simple light bulb.
Keep a spare around for "justincase".
Rog
It is Ace branded, part number 3019817,Accent Floodlight, 1R14 bulb, 25 watt.
Don't remember the price but, it wasn't cheap for a simple light bulb.
Keep a spare around for "justincase".
Rog
623
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Brought a knife to a gun fight
« on: March 01, 2013, 09:43:33 am »
I know about purple heart wood! Also go slow with cherry and maple as they burn quite well also. When cutting hard wood (the real hard ones) go slow, let the dust clear the teeth in the blades and watch the heat of the blade closely. In other words, go slow, stop cutting fairly often to let the blade cool and use the proper blade and speed on the saw. Only experience can tell you what that is for sure.
Fortunately, sanding can fix most burn marks but none of us enjoy sanding. Those woods are beautiful when used in projects but, they require some experience with the saw first.
I agree with starting out with poplar wood (it is considered a hard wood too but is not really that hard) and it can be stained darker if desired. Just be sure to give poplar a coat of 1# cut of shellac before staining as poplar does blotch quite easily. Also, real soft woods like pine crack and break very easily to add to your frustration.
Good luck.
Rog
Fortunately, sanding can fix most burn marks but none of us enjoy sanding. Those woods are beautiful when used in projects but, they require some experience with the saw first.
I agree with starting out with poplar wood (it is considered a hard wood too but is not really that hard) and it can be stained darker if desired. Just be sure to give poplar a coat of 1# cut of shellac before staining as poplar does blotch quite easily. Also, real soft woods like pine crack and break very easily to add to your frustration.
Good luck.
Rog
624
Brag Forum / Re: One from Steve's email. (I think)
« on: February 27, 2013, 05:16:57 pm »
Very nice job for your first!
Ya know, when I first saw that pattern in my email, I couldn't understand why Steve din't make that oval into a fish bowl.?
So now, I'm waiting for someone else to come up with the same idea. Want to try again?
Rog
Ya know, when I first saw that pattern in my email, I couldn't understand why Steve din't make that oval into a fish bowl.?
So now, I'm waiting for someone else to come up with the same idea. Want to try again?
Rog
625
Pattern Requests. / Re: Bowl Making
« on: February 25, 2013, 07:12:15 pm »
OK. Now I understand what you are trying to do but, you don't have to carry the measurements out to decimal points.
I drew a chart out on paper using the actual dimensions of the wood (thickness.....1/4, 1/2, and 3/4") and several angles (10 degrees, 15, 20, 25, 30 and so fourth) and it works for me.
I also would recommend a book by Carole Rothman called "Wooden Bowls from the Scroll Saw". It is available from Fox Chapel Publishing for $19.95 and is the most informative book that I know of. Not only does she show you howto make the most beautiful wooden bowls, there is a chart on the last page to tell you how to calculate the angles for various thicknesses of wood. Yes she does use decimals in the chart but, that is really a lot more than is necessary.
As far as the blade kerf. goes, I can't get real excited about that either.
As far as the thickness of the walls in the finished bowl goes, I repeat, It doesn't matter because there is so much sanding that needs to be done that you couldn't possibly maintain a given thickness any way. In fact, I would guess that wall thickness varies in circumference and top to bottom in a given bowl regardless of who made it.
Rog
I drew a chart out on paper using the actual dimensions of the wood (thickness.....1/4, 1/2, and 3/4") and several angles (10 degrees, 15, 20, 25, 30 and so fourth) and it works for me.
I also would recommend a book by Carole Rothman called "Wooden Bowls from the Scroll Saw". It is available from Fox Chapel Publishing for $19.95 and is the most informative book that I know of. Not only does she show you howto make the most beautiful wooden bowls, there is a chart on the last page to tell you how to calculate the angles for various thicknesses of wood. Yes she does use decimals in the chart but, that is really a lot more than is necessary.
As far as the blade kerf. goes, I can't get real excited about that either.
As far as the thickness of the walls in the finished bowl goes, I repeat, It doesn't matter because there is so much sanding that needs to be done that you couldn't possibly maintain a given thickness any way. In fact, I would guess that wall thickness varies in circumference and top to bottom in a given bowl regardless of who made it.
Rog
626
Pattern Requests. / Re: Bowl Making
« on: February 25, 2013, 09:28:04 am »
Don't get so excited about measurements, that is why God created sand paper!
Does it really matter how thick the walls are?
Rog
Does it really matter how thick the walls are?
Rog
627
The Coffee Shop / Re: only in Iowa
« on: February 22, 2013, 08:50:09 pm »
I was driving in TOWN one day and saw a dog go flying off the bead of a FLAT BED pickup as the driver turned a corner too fast. The dog didn't seem to be hurt too bad as he got up and started chasing the the truck and barking until the driver heard him and stopped so that he could jump back on the bed and off they went down the street.
Rog
Rog
628
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Simple Box question
« on: February 22, 2013, 08:39:21 pm »
No, no reason at all that both the inner and outer walls couldn't be cut form one piece of wood. In fact, I never thought of using two pieces as there is too much waste.
These sides of the boxes were cut from one piece of 2" cherry for each box and then I used purple heart wood for the tops and bottoms. The knobs were cut from the inner scrap piece of one of them after re sawing it to 1" thick.
Waste not want not.
Rog
These sides of the boxes were cut from one piece of 2" cherry for each box and then I used purple heart wood for the tops and bottoms. The knobs were cut from the inner scrap piece of one of them after re sawing it to 1" thick.
Waste not want not.
Rog
629
The Coffee Shop / Re: Winter Storm hit our areaq today!
« on: February 22, 2013, 10:36:13 am »
GB,
Your four inches is what was left over from our thirteen we got over the last two days. (central Kansas)
Rog
Your four inches is what was left over from our thirteen we got over the last two days. (central Kansas)
Rog
630
The Coffee Shop / Re: Old man in convertible
« on: February 22, 2013, 10:26:47 am »
I enjoyed that one. If I only had a convertible! 
Rog
If I only had a convertible! Rog
