Messages

526

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Personalized wood branding kits

« on: August 02, 2012, 12:17:06 am »

I also have an electric purchased at. Woodcraft.  You buy it in the store then send in a form and the UPC and they promptly ship the personalized head back to you.  Other places offer more options for the brand but the one from woodcraft was simple ans a little less expensive and does a good job.  I agree that electric is the way to go, if nothing else, then for consistency.

527

General Scroll Saw Talk / Whirligig question

« on: July 31, 2012, 09:52:17 am »

Years ago I made several whirligigs.  They were cute, and I am thinking of making some again and I still have my patterns.  The only problem is that the Florida sun and humidity did them in in a relatively few years.  It is hard on both the paint and the wood.  What would you guys recommend for materials and paint to give them a longer life?

528

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Picture frame help

« on: July 31, 2012, 09:48:42 am »

Another method used on tablesaws and radial arm saws (should work on a sliding miter as well) is to make a jig which can be clamped to your saw with a 90' joint so you don't have to reset the angle on your saw.  For each joint you cut the left hand pieces on the left and the right hand on the right.  If the length is the same, they should match perfectly even if your angle is slightly off due to the fact that the jig was at 90'.  I hope you can picture what I am trying to describe.

529

The Coffee Shop / Re: Site might be of value

« on: July 24, 2012, 10:06:04 am »

My wife is into machine embroidery and that is one of her favorite sites.

530

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Magnets! Magnets! Magnets!

« on: July 24, 2012, 10:04:12 am »

I got the same email GB.  Now that's an "attractive" offer.

531

The Coffee Shop / Re: Katie & GB at the SAW Expo...

« on: July 22, 2012, 01:46:54 am »

Figures Gb would be friendly with the ladies

532

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: blades

« on: July 22, 2012, 01:44:18 am »

I'm with Dan.  I see nothing but respect.  Maybe you just took him wrong?

533

Swap Shop / Re: I got Balls

« on: July 21, 2012, 08:48:12 am »

Hi Judy,

Thanks for offering!  I checked and my wife still has mine.  She does let me use them once in awhile though.

534

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: band saw

« on: July 16, 2012, 12:16:38 am »

You can find good blades online, or from Carter products (I like their blades) or at Woodcraft, or most any woodworker's supply store.  There are a lot of manufacturers, and the old adage about getting what you pay for is usually correct.  It is important to match the type of blade to the job at hand.  A bandsaw doesn't use a universal blade.  A narrower blade (down to about 1/8") is for scroll work, while the same saw can use a 1/2" blade for resawing.  It also helps if the blade has approximately the right number of teeth per inch for the thickness of the job.  Usually a 1/2" for resawing, a 3/8 for general cutting and a 1/4 or 1/8 for scroll type work will give a good assortment.  the 1/8 blades tend to break easily but have a nice tight turning radius for scrolling.

BudPrine:  My Jet has a 1 1/2 horse motor and with the riser takes a 105" blade.  I obviously cut slower when resawing wide boards, but there is no problem at all with bogging with the setup I am using.  Just tonight I resawed some 4" wide maple and paduk to glue up for use making some sheath knife handles and the blade went through them like butter.  The real question is how often do you plan to cut something over the capacity of your saw without the riser?  Once you install the riser you won't take it back off.  That means all your blades now have to be the larger size (usually 105 for a 14 inch saw) and any old ones you have are no good any longer (gave all of mine away). 

535

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: band saw

« on: July 14, 2012, 11:38:41 pm »

That's a steal of a deal.  I have the same saw, although I have put many accessories and mods on it.  I like the accessories Carter makes for bandsaws, and I have bought the roller guides, the scrolling guide, and the quick tension release.  It all goes to making the bandsaw fun.  It also comes in handy when you want to resaw boards into thinner ones.  I have the riser block on mine, increasing the capacity to 12" thick boards.  I have resawed 10" boards with good results.  You are going to enjoy that tool.  One suggestion, if you are new to bandsaws, watch a couple of the videos on proper setup and use and get a couple of good blades.

536

The Coffee Shop / on the adult side

« on: July 14, 2012, 08:26:05 pm »

Two women were playing golf. One teed off and watched in horror as her ball headed directly toward a foursome of men playing the next hole.
The ball hit one of the men. He immediately clasped his hands together at his groin, fell to the ground and proceeded to roll around in agony.
The woman rushed down to the man, and immediately began to apologize. "Please allow me to help. I'm a Physical Therapist and I know I could relieve your pain if you'd allow me!" she told him.

'Oh, no, I'll be all right. I'll be fine in a few minutes,' the man replied. He was in obvious agony, lying in the fetal position, still clasping his hands at his groin.
At her persistence, however, he finally allowed her to help. She gently took his hands away and laid them to the side, loosened his pants and put her hands inside. She administered tender and artful massage for several long moments and asked, "How does that feel?"

"Feels great" he replied, "but I still think my thumb's broken."

537

The Coffee Shop / Re: Thoughts And Prayers For My Wife

« on: July 10, 2012, 11:55:18 am »

Wish we could help Russ!

538

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Staining Advice

« on: July 10, 2012, 11:54:00 am »

Both will work fine, and I use both.  I use the rattle can for small projects and the regular for larger.  If you want to spray the quart can type, you can thin it with denatured alcohol.  Works good for clean up as well.  Shellac drys quickly so you will enjoy it.  I usually finish up by using 0000 steel wool dipped in paste wax.  It takes off any nibs and adds a very even luster to the finish.

539

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Staining Advice

« on: July 07, 2012, 09:59:44 pm »

I'm pretty sure that wood conditioner is available in both oil based and water based solutions, however using the water  based under a solvent finish shouldn't cause a problem providing you have allowed sufficient drying time.  You might also want to look into a grain filler intended for filling open pored woods like oak and mahogany.  This greatly reduces the number of finish coats required, as well as helping out on evening up the finish.  By the way, the old fashioned finish use most on red oak was an "amber" shellac which adds some color and character but is easy to use and available in brush on or spray cans.

540

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: How to get pattern on wood....

« on: July 07, 2012, 12:48:51 pm »

Yes there is a better way.  Either print out your pattern on the computer and then use spray adhesive to adhere the pattern to the wood, or print out the pattern on paper with a self adhesive backing and apply that to the wood.  I prefer the latter, but it is a bit more expensive.  Either way, it is a good idea to use clear packing tape or painter's tape to help lubricate the blade as it cuts.