Messages

466

Ask Steve a question. / Re: JigSaw Puzzles

« on: November 20, 2013, 07:26:09 pm »

Jeff,
I, or no one else can tell you what speed to use. There are so many variables as to blade, wood used, thickness of wood, etc. But, if you are burning the wood, I would say that your blade is too dull or you are pushing and forcing things. (which usually comes from a dull blade) It just comes from experience and your cutting methods.
I know that blades cost money but, when you think about what it costs to buy a dozen blades from Mike, they are not expensive enough to cause frustration....TOSS THE DARN DULL BLADE!! 
This is not a race, take your time and just guide the line into the new sharp blade and let it do the work. If the saw seems too fast for your cutting control, slow it down a few notches if the saw seems to be to slow to keep up with your ability to feed the line into the blade, speed it up a notch or two and soon you will think "THAT IS IT!". Just remember, it's working just fine for this job but, it may not be right for the next one. That is why God made variable speed saws.  When I started, my first saw had two speeds, fast and stop. 

By the way, Billy has a GREAT IDEA on not only stack cutting two or more puzzles but, putting the puzzle pattern on the back side. That would have helped me immensely had I thought of it a couple of years ago. 

Rog

467

Ask Steve a question. / Re: JigSaw Puzzles

« on: November 19, 2013, 06:20:56 pm »

I made a few puzzles for gifts two years ago. Here is my advice, take it for what it is worth....

#1. Use thin (1/8" or 1/4") plywood for the puzzle. I'm afraid solid wood could break or split for you.

#2. Use "Puzzle blades" available from FD blades (Mike) and other manufactures. They really the only way to fly with all the tight corners in a jigsaw puzzle. They are very thin and the pieces fit very well after cutting.

#3. I glued the picture on a piece of 1/4" plywood and the pattern on a piece of 1/8" plywood which I put on top of the picture and stack cut them and then tossed the pattern piece and kept the picture piece. Some people freehand cut the puzzle pieces and don't use a pattern at all.

#4. Make two copies of the picture so you have one to put on top of the box that you put the pieces in. (I made my own wooden boxes for the puzzles but, any small box would work of course.)

#5. (you don't have to do this) I assembled the puzzle on the workbench as I cut the pieces to make sure that they all fit and they were all there before putting them in the box. Just annal I guess. 

I made five puzzles in a row, they were about 5" x 7" overall and had at least 35 pieces in each one. I was so tired of cutting all those little jibbles by the time I was done that I looked forward to making the five boxes for them. 
Depending on who the puzzles are meant for (mine were for grandkids) you may want to keep it fairly simple. I doubt that any of my puzzles were ever put together by the kids because of difficulty and the number of pieces (kids have short attention spans) so I'm gussing all the pieces are still in the boxes. 

Rog

468

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Granberg chain saw mill...... anyone know if this works or not?

« on: November 19, 2013, 09:34:32 am »

I'll bet it does work but, I have NO experience with it.
Looks like too much trouble and you need a lot of space for wood storage while it dries. And maybe a kiln to speed up the process. There are plans for inexpensive solar kilns and various other things like hoists to lift the logs with but, it is not as easy and cheap as you might think and takes a lot of time.
If you want to get into milling your own wood to save money as a hobbyist, I think you are barking up the wrong tree. (pun intended) 
If you want to get into it to make money from selling wood, there a lot bigger and better machines to be had.

Rog

469

The Coffee Shop / Re: Woodworker

« on: November 17, 2013, 10:56:26 pm »

I didn't see anything "funny" about it except for the reverse and stop motion and speeded up action.
I'm very impressed with his woodworking skills  using nothing but hand tools. I didn't notice any use of glue either.
Anyway, thanks for posting that video, I enjoyed it a lot.

Rog

470

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: New Table design for my Scroll Saw

« on: November 17, 2013, 11:18:52 am »

Very nifty set-up!! 
On wheels to make it easy to move around to a different spot or floor clean-up. 
I trust that you have a blade holder handy, or in the plans, and maybe a coffee cup holder within arms reach too.     I would mount the radio under the front arm and enclose it as much as possible to keep the dust out of it. 
If you are going to go, go all out! 

Rog

471

The Coffee Shop / Re: GED Education

« on: November 16, 2013, 07:37:32 pm »

It seems to me that a lot of those questions are medical related.    Is there a GED test for medical students? 
Now I'm really worried! 

Rog 

472

Pattern Requests. / Re: Simple scroll saw patterns

« on: November 14, 2013, 05:49:09 pm »

Dustin hit the nail on the head.
Just guide the line into the blade and take your time and you will be amazed at what you can do.
A hint....Curved lines are easier and a lot more fun to cut than straight lines. No kidding, it is not all that hard, it just takes time to cut what "look" to be very difficult patterns.
Relax, breathe, make sawdust and enjoy your time hunched over the noise maker.  

Rog

PS. Al W had a very good suggestion too. Check out Steve Good's main blog, he not only has hundreds of patterns but he has a bunch of videos and teaching aids also.

473

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Polley Eurethane and safety NEW

« on: November 12, 2013, 07:12:57 pm »

Well, now we know!!
Thank you for taking the time and effort to go straight to the source Russ.
I will definitely change my tune when I post. But, I won't change the way I finish items when I use polyurethane.
So, at this point I guess the only thing that we know for sure is "food safe" is shellac and it tends to dry fast. Well, faster than 30 days I think.  Want to check that out for me?  (Just teasing you Russ)

Rog

474

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Polley Eurethane and safety

« on: November 11, 2013, 06:43:53 pm »

I use polyurethane on most of the things I build including a dining room table made of cherry.
I have never worried about "food safe" as we use plates and silverware to eat with and seldom lick food off the table. (Although I'm sure my grandkids probably have.  )
My understanding is that most, if not all finishes sold in the United States of America is food safe once it is cured. How long the "curing" time is up for debate but, I would think that 30 days is WAY MORE than adequate and is probably overkill.
I also think that the amount of finish ingested would have to range of a ounce or so to cause any serious health issues and eating glue or chewing on a wooden pencil or eraser would be far more dangerous to a child's health. (Know anyone who has ever done that? Did it cause brain damage or death? Other than choking on it I mean.)   
There is far too much concern on paint and finishes as far as I'm concerned. Lead paint was outlawed several years ago. To be honest, when I was a baby, I'm sure my baby bed was painted with lead paint and I'm equally sure I chewed on it when I was cutting teeth.
NO! I'm not going to ask if you think it affected me, so just keep your comments to yourself! 

Rog

PS I've lived to be 70 years old so far. 

475

Pattern Requests. / Re: Pattern Request

« on: November 11, 2013, 09:00:35 am »

I would just cut out the moon and use a light colored background.

Rog

476

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Question about finishing.

« on: November 09, 2013, 09:55:20 am »

Thanks guys I will put all of your suggestions together and give it a go.  BUT one question will normal brown paper do because we don't get our grocery in brown paper bags.

Marg

Yes, any heavy paper will work. It can be white, brown or any color it just needs to have some texture. I would say that anything heavier than typing paper but, don't try a slick finish or wax covered types of paper.
We have our own grocery bags to grocery shop with but when I go to the hardware store and a few other places they will sometimes put a small purchase in paper a sack that works equally well.
Plastic is taking over the world even though some of it is biodegradable these days. 

Rog

477

Brag Forum / Re: Scrolling Chocolate

« on: November 08, 2013, 08:33:37 pm »

Well, at least that is "Thinking Outside the Lines" but, it may be a bit TOO FAR outside. 

Rog

478

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Question about finishing.

« on: November 08, 2013, 10:33:39 am »

I use "wipe-on"polyurethane and a rag (piece of old "T" shirt) on most of my projects. I wipe on a coat, let it dry (4-8 hours) lightly sand with 600 grit paper and wipe on another coat. Yes, even wipe-on finishes get air bubbles and dust nibs.
After about three coats, I "sand" with brown paper bag and rub on a coat of Minwax paste wax.
I realize that this wont work on fret work very well but, then who handles fret work and few people even notice the finish on fret work anyway.
I use this method for boxes, bowls and vases mostly as people tend to want to pick them up for inspection.

Rog

479

The Coffee Shop / Re: I needed a tow truck today

« on: November 04, 2013, 09:20:11 am »

If it wasn't a "write-off" before, it is now! 

Rog

480

Brag Forum / Re: First attempt at bowl making

« on: November 03, 2013, 09:45:47 pm »

Nice job!
I'm glad to see someone else get bitten by the "Bowl Bug" 
Don't worry too much about being a little off center with the pattern it just makes it look more interesting. I would have never noticed if you hadn't said something.
In fact, try another and move it a bit farther off center, it could be a very interesting look. 

Rog