46
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: felt ?
« on: April 07, 2016, 09:10:18 am »
I avoid the problem all together by using those little self stick felt pads. 
News: Had a couple issues with the forum today. 1/19/2017. I believe I have them corrected now. Let me know if you have any trouble. Thanks.
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
47
Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: resawing
« on: April 05, 2016, 09:34:52 am »
Probably the most common cause of this is not enough tension on the blade. To get good results when re-sawing, there are a lot of factors to consider. If you have the manual for the saw, see if it has instructions on how to properly adjust and set up the saw. Go through all of those steps to ensure the saw is operating to it's fullest potential. There are probably even tons of YouTube videos you could watch on tuning a bandsaw that might be helpful.
The location of the blade guides and tracking of the blade is also critical for re-sawing. Unfortunately, I believe that the inexpensive, bench top bandsaws are always going to present a challenge when it comes to re-sawing. If it is the 3 wheel version, those are notoriously finicky to get adjusted properly. Thicker (wider) blades can help with re-sawing, but I doubt you will be able to put a much wider blade on a small, benchtop saw. Because the wheels are smaller than on larger saws, it means the blade has to be flexible enough to bend in the tighter circumference. That will limit the width/thickness of the blade the saw will accept. Also, wider re-saw blades require more tension than the narrow blades. Most of the smaller, benchtop saws don't have the capability to apply enough tension for them.
The location of the blade guides and tracking of the blade is also critical for re-sawing. Unfortunately, I believe that the inexpensive, bench top bandsaws are always going to present a challenge when it comes to re-sawing. If it is the 3 wheel version, those are notoriously finicky to get adjusted properly. Thicker (wider) blades can help with re-sawing, but I doubt you will be able to put a much wider blade on a small, benchtop saw. Because the wheels are smaller than on larger saws, it means the blade has to be flexible enough to bend in the tighter circumference. That will limit the width/thickness of the blade the saw will accept. Also, wider re-saw blades require more tension than the narrow blades. Most of the smaller, benchtop saws don't have the capability to apply enough tension for them.
48
Ask Steve a question. / Re: cuttiong speed
« on: April 04, 2016, 09:30:24 am »
Speed and feed rate are very much a matter of personal comfort. If the pattern is very detailed, I would slow the saw down a bit to prevent overcutting in very delicate areas. If your saw has variable speed, you can simply turn it up, when you feel comfortable. I often change speeds during the cut and tend to run my saw at slower speeds than others. I know guys in my scroll saw club who only run theirs wide open. I rarely do. It's all a matter of what you are comfortable with.
1/4" plywood won't offer much resistance to a sharp blade, so I would go with the smallest blade I could. Again, this is dictated somewhat by the detail and complexity of the pattern, but the smallest blades will give you the most control. For a pattern with lots of detail, I would typically use a #2/0, reverse tooth blade. If using spirals, I would use a #2/0 or #3/0. If the pattern is fairly simple, I may go a size larger.
1/4" plywood won't offer much resistance to a sharp blade, so I would go with the smallest blade I could. Again, this is dictated somewhat by the detail and complexity of the pattern, but the smallest blades will give you the most control. For a pattern with lots of detail, I would typically use a #2/0, reverse tooth blade. If using spirals, I would use a #2/0 or #3/0. If the pattern is fairly simple, I may go a size larger.
49
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Blades
« on: April 01, 2016, 04:13:51 pm »
Wooden Teddy Bear now owns the rights to sell FD blades in the US. You can still use the original FD site to place the order, but they're coming from WTB.
I've used Olson blades for years. Their MS series blades are my favorite for general scrolling. Until recently, I've only used FD's spiral blades, but I did buy a few FD-UR blades to try out. So far I like them.
I've used Olson blades for years. Their MS series blades are my favorite for general scrolling. Until recently, I've only used FD's spiral blades, but I did buy a few FD-UR blades to try out. So far I like them.
50
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: foot switch
« on: March 30, 2016, 09:42:22 am »
If by momentary on, you mean like the deadman style switch where you need to keep your foot on the pedal, then I think that is actually the type that is most popular among scrollers. I scrolled for several years before I got one. It took me a little while to un-train myself to instinctively reach for the switch every time, but once I got used to it, there was no going back. The new one I just got with my EX-21 is larger and sits higher than my old one. I'm still getting used to it, but they are indeed a game changer, IMHO.
51
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Blade angle
« on: March 26, 2016, 08:57:55 am »This is an interesting topic. I've heard a number of reasons for the blade leaning but have never seen anything from a manufacturer which has me wondering where everyone gets their information from. I know there are some folks who have been around a while so I'm just asking if any of the manuals for your scroll saw have information about the forward to aft movement of the blade?
Another one that I heard was as the scroll saw evolved the geometry of the blade movement allowed for sawdust to be removed from the kerf and allow the blade to cut cleaner with less heat buildup.
Rick Hutcheson has some information on his website about the general physics of how different saw designs cut. Check out pages in the "About Saws" section, listed in the left margin of the screen.
http://www.scrollsaws.com/
52
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Blade angle
« on: March 23, 2016, 09:37:02 am »
Checking the forward lean of the blade in a fixed position, may not be an indicator of how square it actually cuts. Depending on the design of the saw, there can be a slight rocking motion to the blade as it moves up & down. It's inherent to the geometry of how the upper & lower arms are designed and where the pivot points are on the saw. If testing, by making a shallow kerf in the (square) edge of a thick piece of wood, indicates that the kerf is the same depth on top and bottom, then you are good to go. The fact that your blade is canted forward, while in a static position, just means that it may have a little more aggressive cutting motion than one that maintains a more straight up and down motion througout the cut. If the forward lean revealed itself in the cut, this would be a problem, because as you cut to the line on the top of the piece, the bottom would not be cutting as far and the waste pieces wouldn't release without overcutting on the top. This would be especially problematic when stack cutting.
53
Pattern Requests. / Re: elaborate wall clock
« on: March 21, 2016, 11:38:29 am »
Wildwood Designs has a nice selection of advanced fretwork clocks.
http://www.wildwooddesigns.com/Wall-Scroll-Saw-Clock-Patterns-C64.aspx?s=Featured ASC&ps=12&p=1
Pedro also has some excellent and unique patterns.
http://www.finescrollsaw.com/
http://www.wildwooddesigns.com/Wall-Scroll-Saw-Clock-Patterns-C64.aspx?s=Featured ASC&ps=12&p=1
Pedro also has some excellent and unique patterns.
http://www.finescrollsaw.com/
54
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: ex-21 air bellows
« on: March 19, 2016, 07:00:08 am »
I just got a new EX-21. I have to keep the nozzle pretty close to the blade as well. My old Dewalt was the same way.
55
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Painting wood toys
« on: March 18, 2016, 08:46:41 am »
I know that you can mix dyes with shellac. Shellac is safe and non-toxic. I don't know about dyes. I wonder if one could mix food coloring with shellac? I might have to try that.
56
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: A matter of practicality?
« on: March 15, 2016, 02:42:10 pm »
We woodworkers are a notably frugal lot. I tend to use sandpaper way past it's optimum life span and I can tell a blade is dull when I start to smell smoke. 
One thing about raising the surface of the table is that if you are using reverse tooth blades, you will be negating their benefit, as the bottom teeth may no longer do their job.
How many partially used blades do you have scattered about your work area? I have a tendency to save blades that still have some life, but aren't good enough to put back in the tube with the new ones. If I've only cut a short while with it, but need to change it for a different type or size, I set it aside and usually forget about it. Then I notice I've got a fair size collection of slightly used blades of all different types and sizes. Then I spend more time and energy trying to figure out what size they are and get them used up. Bottom line is, blades are a consumable and relatively cheap, especially of purchased in bulk. I should probably change my blades more often/more quickly and not worry so much about trying to maximize their usability.
One thing about raising the surface of the table is that if you are using reverse tooth blades, you will be negating their benefit, as the bottom teeth may no longer do their job. How many partially used blades do you have scattered about your work area? I have a tendency to save blades that still have some life, but aren't good enough to put back in the tube with the new ones. If I've only cut a short while with it, but need to change it for a different type or size, I set it aside and usually forget about it. Then I notice I've got a fair size collection of slightly used blades of all different types and sizes. Then I spend more time and energy trying to figure out what size they are and get them used up. Bottom line is, blades are a consumable and relatively cheap, especially of purchased in bulk. I should probably change my blades more often/more quickly and not worry so much about trying to maximize their usability.
57
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Not sure what blade to use
« on: March 12, 2016, 01:26:07 pm »
Hard to say what the problem is, without knowing what blade is in the saw now. Typically for wood that thick, I would probably choose something at least #3 or larger. I've cut 1/2" thick oak with #2 reverse tooth blades. It's slow, but not as slow as 10 minutes per inch. Just about any sharp blade should cut faster than that.
58
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Cutting veins
« on: March 11, 2016, 09:22:58 am »
Depends a little on the pattern. If the veining is very close together, then a smaller blade is better. The previous suggestion of a 2/0 spiral is a pretty good starting point.
If you aren't comfortable with spirals, you can use straight blades. Again, the size depends on the detail in the pattern. Some folks even first cut the vein with a straight blade, then follow up with a spiral, to open it up a bit.
If you aren't comfortable with spirals, you can use straight blades. Again, the size depends on the detail in the pattern. Some folks even first cut the vein with a straight blade, then follow up with a spiral, to open it up a bit.
59
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Air hose upgrade
« on: March 10, 2016, 03:37:02 pm »
Not really a very good answer to your question, but a fellow in our scrollsaw club has an old velocipede scrollsaw. When he cuts on it, he blows through a drinking straw to clear the saw dust. I tried it one time. Between pedaling the saw and blowing the dust, you get pretty winded.
60
Brag Forum / Re: 2 part project
« on: March 10, 2016, 03:33:54 pm »
Well done on both projects. I think Schwibbogens are so cool! By the way, what's the difference between a Schwibbogen and a Lichterbogen? And no, that isn't a set up for a punchline to some obscure joke, it's an honest question. 
