Messages

436

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Torn between Dewlt or Excaliber

« on: December 22, 2013, 11:03:03 am »

I have a Dewalt saw and am happy with it. I've never used an Excalibur so I won't comment on which one to get but,I would recommend going with a deeper throat than a 16". My Dewalt has a 20" throat and is big enough for me but, there are times when I wish it was bigger yet.
I have had two saws previously that had 16" throats and one of the things I liked about the Dewalt right away was the deeper throat.
Just my two cents worth.

Rog

437

The Coffee Shop / Re: A video about the Story Of My Life

« on: December 20, 2013, 08:33:06 pm »

He just lacks the incentive to make that final jump to get him to where he wants to go.
But then again, he could just go with the flow and go back up and try another escalator. Like the DOWN one maybe? 
Such is life for all of us in one way or another. 

Rog

438

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Amazon find...tubes and rack for scroll saw blades, drill bits etc

« on: December 17, 2013, 09:34:57 pm »

What in the world are you going to do with 60 tubes?  
I have 12 and doing just fine. I dont even think there are 60 different blades to put in the tubes. Well, maybe there are but, I would be so confused about which blade to use that I would never get anything cut.  
It does seem like a good price, but buying things because they are cheap weather you have a use for them or not, seems like a waste of money to me.  

Rog

439

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Getting glue residue off/Pattern transfer

« on: December 15, 2013, 01:19:56 pm »

I use the spray on glue on the paper and put it directly on the wood.
I blow off or vacuum the wood first and spray a good coat of glue on the paper. Let it set for a few minutes before applying to the wood and smooth it out so that it will adhere well and put clear packing tape over the pattern for blade lubrication.
When it is time to remove the pattern, I use a heat gun (in my case an old hair dryer of my wifes) to soften the glue and peel it off. If I have trouble, I use the mineral spirits to clean it up further.

To be honest, a lot of times I just draw on the wood with a pencil and sand it off afterwards. 

Rog

440

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Squaring up corners and seamless joinery

« on: December 12, 2013, 12:27:12 pm »

Here is an example of a box that I made some time ago. It is made of red oak which is one of the harder woods to work with because it splinters easily. These are not miter joints they were just made to look that way.
 I can still see the joints even after using all the tips that I gave you. I wasn't kidding when I said "You can't do it" all you can do is get close.





Or you can go the other way and "high light" the joints!!!





Rog

441

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Squaring up corners and seamless joinery

« on: December 12, 2013, 12:00:46 pm »

In my opinion, You can't do it!
If your parts are cut good and square and you have nice tight glue joints, that is as good as it gets.
You can "help" the joints hide by sanding the outer surfaces after assembly nice and smooth before finishing. And you can help it further by sanding the end grain of the parts to a higher grit of sandpaper so that any stain or finish will take the color closer the color of the face grain. But, if you are butt gluing a box, you will be able to see any joints that are made.
If you are using miter joints and get a bit of a gap in the corners,  you can try filling them with either glue or shellac mixed with sawdust but, it will still be noticeable. If you have fairly tight corners with just a small line of gap, you can run the round shank of a screwdriver down along the corner pressing the wood fibers tighter together before finishing the wood and that is about as close as you are going to get!
I make a LOT of boxes and in most cases, I use miter joints and try to get the wood grain to match up all around the sides as close as I can but, still if you look closely, you can see where I might have patched a gap or two. 

Rog

PS, I'll try to post a picture of a box or two.

442

Brag Forum / Re: Fretwork Jewelry Box

« on: December 12, 2013, 11:06:23 am »

I really like the box you made. It looks very fancy and I'm sure it will be enjoyed for years.
What kind of hinges did you use on the lid? I really can't see them and it doesn't look like a lift off lid either?

Rog

443

Brag Forum / Re: Got my Sisters Christmas presents done today

« on: December 12, 2013, 11:03:10 am »

I don't see the mistakes and miscuts either.
A better quality saw isn't going to keep those from happening anyway. Only practice and patents will do that! You are doing just fine with the saw you have.

Rog

444

The Coffee Shop / Re: Save the Planet. Don't use Paper

« on: December 10, 2013, 11:28:17 am »

Being that I'm an OLD man....I LOVE IT!!!

Rog

445

The Coffee Shop / Re: Why don't you unplug your saw and go play in the sandbox

« on: December 10, 2013, 11:25:34 am »

And everyone tells ME that I have too much time on my hands! 

Rog 

446

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Hardwood Flooring

« on: December 09, 2013, 11:13:41 am »

[quote author=dirtrider73068 link=topic=15567.msg146443#msg146443 date=1
I have been wanting to get different woods but my limit is I don't have a way to resaw it, unless can find a cabinet shop with a band willing to help me out. I have a box I would love to build for my stepdaughter its a dance box she loves ballet, but it calls for walnut and ash, and I am not good at all with stain.
[/quote]


dirtrider,
Do you have a table saw? If you do, you can re-saw wood up to about 7" wide with a 10" blade on a table saw.  Just set the fence for the thickness (or a touch thicker) and run the board through vertically then flip it end for end and run it through again. Use featherboards to keep the board nice and tight against the fence. then , it can be sanded  smooth or ran through a planer if you have saw marks to get rid of.
I have resawn 3/4" boards down to 1/4" to 5/16" thick allowing for the saw kerf and about 7" wide.
Depending on the thickness of the original board, you can get two or more boards out of one piece and pretty much the thickness that you want.

Rog

447

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Early XMAS Present

« on: December 08, 2013, 06:12:24 pm »

I enquired about a foot switch from the tool store where I got my EX21 from, they quoted me ?85 for it so I said no thanks. I wonder if the one you got would work on our 250v systems?

I'm not sure about the 250v systems but, in the US, we use 110v and I bought mine for around $30.00.
You might try shopping around at different stores. Sometimes speciality shops get a bit more money for things.

Rog

448

The Coffee Shop / Re: Dog and Cat Lovers (Funny)

« on: December 08, 2013, 01:19:58 pm »

Experience is the greatest teacher! 

Rog
 

449

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Early XMAS Present

« on: December 08, 2013, 01:08:41 pm »

You will love having a foot switch ("dead pedal") it makes things so much easier and convenient that I am surprised that saw manufacturers don't include them with the saw. Or at least make them as a accessory like the lights and stands.

Rog 

450

The Coffee Shop / Re: Too much scrolling will make YOU this way !!

« on: December 07, 2013, 11:03:33 am »

I think he spent too much time eating the old grapes at the grapevine next door. 

Rog