Messages

376

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: warping wood with plaques

« on: March 14, 2014, 09:57:07 am »

If you leave wood laying flat on a tabletop for an extended time, it tends to warp faster due to the humidity in the air getting to the top surface and not the bottom. If you lay small strips of wood under it (called "stickers") it will allow the air to circulate to both sides and will help them stay flat.
Also, if you stand it on edge vertically it might help.
If you are storing your cuttings for a show or sale or something you might consider storing them in a book rack or something similar. If you have them laying on top of each other, the top one may warp but, most of the others in the stack will stay fairly flat due to the lack of exposure to the humidity.
WOOD MOVES and controlling it is impossible at best.

Rog

PS If you have a warped piece and want to TRY flattening it out, turn it over on you table for a day or two and see if that helps and if it does, store it as I recommended above afterwards.

377

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: PROXXON

« on: March 11, 2014, 10:16:00 am »

My first scroll saw was an off the wall brand and cost $100.00 which required a 3 mm hex (allen) wrench and cap screw for the blade holders. I was perfectly happy with it for two or three years because I didn't know any better. I kept extra cap screws on hand all the time and went through several allen wrenches.
Then a friend introduced me to a Dremel saw which had small knobs for the blade change and I thought I had died and gone to heaven. It cost $200.00 but, I thought it was well worth it for another three years or so.
Then I happened upon Steve Good's website and he convinced me that a DeWalt saw was the only way to fly and as far as I'm concerned, he was right! I don't do as much scrolling as I used to and maybe someday I'll want to try another saw but, right now, I'm a happy as a clam. 

Rog

378

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: I'm a dummy that wants to learn Stack Cutting

« on: March 10, 2014, 09:15:53 am »

But I am still waiting for somebody to elaborate on this toothpick thing!

Becky,
As I understand it, the toothpick thing is kind of like using brads to hold the two pieces in alignment while cutting. Instead of using brads which are metal and can scratch the table surface and/or hit the blade, you simply drill small holes in the stack and glue toothpicks in the holes. Then you can cut and sand them down for a smooth surface on both sides and since they are wood, they won't hurt the table or a blade.

Rog

379

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Hardwood versus ply

« on: March 08, 2014, 10:10:41 am »

There is a huge difference between the birch ply that you get at a home center and "real" baltic birch plywood. The real stuff has a lot more plys and is birch all the way though. Check out Steve Goods email today, he explains it very well.
I have used hardwood for portraits but, they need to be very simple without a lot of small cutouts and you want to use a very close grained wood to prevent breaking out along the grain. Red oak is NOT one of those hard woods.

Rog 

380

The Coffee Shop / Re: anti friction coatings

« on: March 06, 2014, 06:25:43 pm »

dirtrider,
What kind of wax are you using and what are you cutting that the wax on the table only lasts two hours?
I wax my table saw and scroll saw tables with Minwax paste finishing wax about two or three times a YEAR whether they need it or not!
I live in Kansas where we have all kinds of weather from dry winter to very humid hot summers and I cut all types of WOOD without any problems with surface rust.
I just can't imagine that you can wear off a coat of wax by rubbing wood over it under normal use. If the wax is wearing off onto the wood that bad you MUST have finishing problems with all that wax in the wood.
If a drop of sweat should fall on the table, I mop it up immediately and if someone tries to set a cold drink on a cast iron table of mine, they will lose a hand in short order.   
You must need a table so slick that you can't keep anything laying on it if there is a fan running in the room.

Rog

381

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Dado Blades

« on: March 06, 2014, 06:00:53 pm »

I actually have three sets of dado blades.....(don't ask)
I have a 8 piece set of 8" Freud that I bought quite some time ago (10 years or so) for around $80.00  I think but, the price may have increased by now.
I have a 8 piece set of 6" Forrest blades that I bought at an auction for $11.00. (Because no one else knew what they were I guess) they list at over $200.00 now!
AND I have what I would recommend to you. A 2 piece set of Freud  box joint blades that I think can be had for around $70.00 new.
I recommend the Freud 2 piece set because they work very well on box joints and you can cut 1/4" joints or 3/8" depending on how you put them on the saw arbor. I probably use them more than the others because they are so easy to sit up and you know exactly how wide the cut is going to be before you even turn on the saw. With the larger sets, not only are they more expensive, you have to fiddle with sorting various blades, chippers and shims then test cut two or three times to get it right.
Now, if you are going to use dado blades for more than box joints only and get into thicker material and wider box joints, I say "GO FOR THE GOLD". "BITE THE BULLET" and get the best set you can afford. You will be happier in the long run and thank me later. 

Rog

382

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: I'm a dummy that wants to learn Stack Cutting

« on: March 06, 2014, 05:35:01 pm »

I usually use double sided carpet tape for stack cutting. However if the design is really intricate on 1/8" wood, I wouldn't advise it. I usually cut 1/4" or greater and most of my patterns are not that intricate.
One thing you might try if you just tape around the outside edges is, after you cut all the interior area and start on the outer cut, to stop and re-tape as you go. Example, cut the top portion completely away and the put a piece of blue tape in that area, then one side and re-tape that side and then the bottom and re-tape. By the time you cut the last side you will be done and have only three pieces of tape to contend with.
Just a suggestion.

Rog

383

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Delta B.O.S.S.

« on: March 02, 2014, 06:30:44 pm »

I don't have a Delta B.O.S.S., I have a Ridgid O.S.S. and I've noticed that you have to tighten the top nut really tight to expand the rubber inside the sand paper sleeve sometimes to hold it in place. I think it has something to do  with how old it is or how much the sleeve has been used. Also it might depend on the brand of sandpaper used.
I assume you have tried more than one sandpaper sleeve so, my next step would be to warm the rubber plug up a bit. I don't mean a flame but, maybe aim a heat gun or hair dryer at it (with it off the machine) to expand it before installing the sand paper. Also, make sure the rubber plug is nice and clean. Wipe it down with some thinner, again, don't soak it just wipe it off a bit.  Cold and sanding dust does strange things to tools and equipment sometimes. 
Hope that helps.

Rog

P.S. Another thing that I forgot....are you using a washer under the top nut? If so, make sure that the inner diameter of the washer is just big enough to go over the shaft and the outer diameter is just a bit (1/4") smaller than the rubber plug to get good squish out of the rubber to tighten up the sandpaper sleeve.

384

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Need some expert opions..

« on: March 02, 2014, 10:02:07 am »

Larry,

Here is a bowl (I call it "Super Bowl") that I cut out of construction grade plywood some time ago. It is 3/4" thick and some older ply that didn't have any voids in it. It is about 11" in diameter at the top and 6" tall.
NEVER be afraid of trying something new and different, even if it doesn't work at least you can say you tried and you learned something.






Rog

385

The Coffee Shop / Re: Fire and ice

« on: February 28, 2014, 10:30:47 am »

They must practice A LOT!!

Rog

386

The Coffee Shop / Re: The Middle Wife

« on: February 25, 2014, 08:49:22 pm »

When our daughter was in kindergarten she took her baby brother (our 3 month son to) "show and tell".
Of course my wife had to go along.

Rog 

387

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Up-Date on NOT USING PAINTERS TAPE.... :+}

« on: February 23, 2014, 09:32:31 pm »

I bought some avery full sheet labels number 48165 at wally world got 10 sheets for 4.44, tried one on a project, worked good, printed good was for laser and ink jet, these labels are for two kinds of printers not sure how well it would work to get ones for laser and use a ink jet. It stuck down good, did not even try to peel off lift up.

I tried at first to just peel it off, it worked to a point then started to leave some sticky back behind, I got a old hair dryer put it on low heat with a low fan speed and heated up the top or where the pattern was printed and it peeled right off, no residue left behind. You have had too much heat thus melting the glue, rather than heat it up and making it soft to let it release, think I may try to order some more in a bigger pack from amazon. I did also notice that some of these labels are marked as permanent and reviews do say once they stick they are stuck and do not come off, making sure where you want them when before you stick them down.

I find the same thing to be true with the double sided tape (carpet tape) also.
I buy my carpet tape from Ace hardware and the "Ace" brand has two grades of carpet tape. One grade is marked "Heavy duty" and once it is put down, it DOESN'T  want to let go and can be very problematic in trying to separate two pieces of wood.
The other grade is "Light duty" with a plastic backing (which its what I use the most) and while it does hold things together (as far as scroll sawing goes) it releases fairly easy. If there is a problem, a little heat from a hair dryer usually solves the problem.
I guess what I'm trying to say is "The best" isn't always what works best for a given job. Sometimes a lesser grade is more desirable in certain circumstances.
I find the same to be true with the blue painters tape. Brand can make a difference, I've used 3M brand for years and never had a problem with making it stick where I want it to but, still have not had a problem with it not realising or tearing the wood when it needs to be removed.
I have heard that time does make a difference though. If it is in place for a week or more, it will tend to be harder to remove as the story goes. I wouldn't know about that because I've never let it set for more than a day or two on my scrolling projects.

Rog

388

The Coffee Shop / Re: Words of wisdom

« on: February 22, 2014, 06:25:56 pm »

Words of wisdom
It's good to be the smartest one in the group, especially if you are the only one who knows it.


Joke of the week
When my wife came home I asked her where she had been. She said the beauty shop then I asked her if it was closed......

389

Brag Forum / Re: novelty toilet paper holder

« on: February 21, 2014, 10:53:16 am »

Very nice job! It is cute.
A lot fancier than the one I made for a friend. Altho, I think mine is a lot more practical in that it holds one usable roll and has storage for three extra rolls too. 
(The extras are under the lift off lid with the hole in it.)






Rog

390

Ask Steve a question. / Re: slickery stuff?

« on: February 20, 2014, 11:13:22 am »

Judy,
I think you might be referring to "Bioshield". It can be found at woodworking stores and is used to keep iron tops (table saws or scroll saws) from rusting and keep them slick. I think there are other brands to be had out there too.
I personally use Minwax paste wax on my equipment for rust and slickery problems but, it does require some time and rubbing to apply. A quick spritz of the newer stuff would be quite handy but, is a bit more expensive to buy. 
They all probably last about the same amount of time. I really don't wax my tables more than two or three times a year.

Rog