Messages

331

The Coffee Shop / Now this is a clamp

« on: April 01, 2013, 12:09:05 pm »

Just in time for April, Lee Valley has the mother of all clamps.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70655&c=

A little expensive but definitely unique.

Jim

332

Computer questions / Re: VHS tapes to CD

« on: March 22, 2013, 11:02:14 am »

One problem I found when backing up commercial VHS tapes to DVD (for my own use only!!) was the copy protection embedded in the VHS tapes.  I had to buy an inexpensive "digital video stabilizer and color corrector" before I could copy the VHS to the DVD.

I also had purchased a combined VHS and DVD player recorder which was supposed to transfer from VHS to DVD.  It would not transfer the commercial VHS tapes because of the copy protection but I expect it would work with non-commercial tapes.  I had a VHS player and a DVD recorder with the video stabilizer in between and could then transfer from VHS to DVD.

Good luck.
Jim

333

Pattern Requests. / Re: gimp and inkscape

« on: February 26, 2013, 08:52:34 am »

daveo, what I am going to say applies to a "PNG" file.  Other file types may be different.  In Gimp, the checked background means the background is transparent.  A transparent background in Inkscape shows white on the screen. 

A transparent background is useful for situations such as web site work but for scroll saw patterns, white or transparent doesn't matter.

Personally I like transparent as I do some web design so it's convenient default for me.  If you don't like transparent, there is probably a default that you can set to have a white background, or you could try filling the background with white using paint can (can't remember the correct name but it looks like a paint can).
Jim

334

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Surge suppression for your saw?

« on: February 12, 2013, 09:18:47 am »

Excellent question.  Never thought about protecting the electronics on the saw.  I'm going to find a surge suppressor - it can only help.

I wonder if a "standard" surge suppressor, like the ones we use on computers, TV's etc., would be adequate.  The starting current, even at full speed, shouldn't be very high as the running is only a few amps.  Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Jim

335

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: question about brazilian cherry wood

« on: February 03, 2013, 11:09:33 pm »

Brazilian cherry, also called Jatoba, is extremely hard.  I made a cutting (about 1/2" thick) with it and used half a dozen blades (FD-UR #3, if I remember correctly) where I would normally use 2 or 3.  The cut edges were extremely smooth and almost mirror-like.

The blades cut well until they start to dull and then it is hard to follow the line.  The blade seems to go it's own way and each correction mars the mirror-like cut edge.

Good luck,
Jim

Edit:
I may not have used the best blade for this project.  If anyone has suggestions on a more suitable blade, I'd be glad to hear them
J

336

The Coffee Shop / Which dog is guilty?

« on: February 01, 2013, 08:42:52 pm »

A great 34 second clip; Anyone who thinks a dog does not remember or does not feel guilt has not lived with a dog.

Just look at the expressions on the faces of these three dogs when they are asked the same question at the same time..... (NOTE the immediate reaction of the two darker dogs on the right side of the screen - talk about a total throw under the bus!)

No matter how many times I watch this, I laugh just as much as the first time I saw it.

http://www.maniacworld.com/which-is-the-guilty-dog.html

337

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Blade not square front to back. Is this normal?

« on: January 27, 2013, 08:52:02 pm »

Some of us have had some success in getting the blade perpendicular to the table by raising the rear of the table.  I made this http://stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=12146.0 and it works for me.  Someone else (can't recall who) got a machinist to make a metal version. 

Hope this helps.
Jim

338

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Profile detail

« on: January 23, 2013, 09:05:34 am »

Good idea - added my saw info to my signature.

Mainewoods, I agree with not divulging too much info but it is nice to have an idea where people are, even if it is only the province or state.
Jim

339

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Profile detail

« on: January 22, 2013, 08:57:56 pm »

I second the motion.

Jim

340

The Coffee Shop / Re: magnifier lamp

« on: January 22, 2013, 12:35:19 pm »

The magnifier light http://www.busybeetools.com/products/MANIFYING-LAMP-90-LED-TABLE-MOUNTING.html I bought a few weeks ago is on sale for $65 plus there is a $15 off if you use the coupon code TAKEOF15 at checkout.  Plus, there is free shipping to Quebec during January.  http://www.busybeetools.com/pages/FreeShippingQuebec?utm_source=Busy+Bee+e-Newsletter&utm_campaign=688c488d27-Save_15_email1_21_2013&utm_medium=email

Jim

341

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: 40-690 blade movement - for and aft

« on: January 21, 2013, 05:22:43 pm »

Mike, I tried that http://stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=12146.0 and it did help get the blade more vertical to the table but I still have the back and forth movement that I don't like.

Thanks,
Jim

342

General Scroll Saw Talk / 40-690 blade movement - for and aft

« on: January 21, 2013, 04:23:44 pm »

When my Delta 40-690, the DW788 clone, is cutting, the blade move back and forth about 3/32" as measured at the top of the table.  I find this causes the wood to move forwards and backwards, especially when I am sort of holding the wood back so it cuts more slowly.  The saw also seems to cut quite aggressively and gets away from me, especially in tight turns.

I've been playing with moving the lower rocker assembly forward, as mentioned in Rick's Dewalt tune-up section, and have moved it forward about 3/32 or perhaps 1/8".  The blade movement is down to about 1/64".  This has been done by removing the 4 screws that hold the lower rocker and sliding the rocker forward.  It's held now with a clamp - for testing.

Before I start slotting the mounting holes I was wondering how little blade movement is acceptable?  If the blade moves perfectly up and down, how does the sawdust get cleared out of the blade, especially for thicker wood. Is some back and forth movement necessary?  Am I wrong in thinking the back and forth movement make the saw cut more aggressively?

I will be very interested in your comments and suggestions.

Thanks,
Jim

343

Computer questions / Re: Photo upload

« on: January 21, 2013, 01:32:30 pm »

On my PC, if I right click on an image file, Picture Manager (PM) is under the "Open With" part of the list that appears.  PM has an "Edit Pictures" button which leads to, among other things, Crop and Resize - both useful for posting on this forum.  Resize reduces both the size (pixels) and the file size of an image.

Picture Manager seems to come with all versions of Office, up to 2010.  This link http://office.microsoft.com/en-au/help/about-picture-manager-HP001001721.aspx give 2 options to start PM to fix pictures. 

When you installed Office, was there an option to install PM?  You should be able to add it by inserting the Office CD and selecting modify.  Note - I'm assuming this will work, it works for other programs - perhaps someone can confirm or deny that this will work.

Good luck,
Jim

344

Computer questions / Re: Photo upload

« on: January 20, 2013, 08:46:09 pm »

Microsoft Office Picture Manager is a good program to crop and to reduce the size of an image.  It is part of Microsoft Office so if you have Office, you should have the picture manager.  Find the image you want to work on and right click on it.  If one of the options is Picture Manager, use it to reduce the image.

At least that's how it works on my PC (Win XP).

Good luck,
Jim

345

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Vertical Cuts

« on: January 18, 2013, 08:43:52 pm »

As dg says, let the blade do the cutting and don't try to get back on the line by pushing sideways on the wood.  It took me a while to learn that I have to turn the wood to get back onto the line, I can't push the wood sideways.  Now, every so often, I stop moving the wood into the blade and almost let go of the wood.  If I've been pushing sideways on the wood, the tension of the blade will move the wood sideways.  Then I know I have been cutting at an angle.

Keep practicing until you can follow a circle pattern and the cutout will come out of the wood upwards or downwards.
Jim