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Brag Forum / Re: box or basket or both?
« on: March 21, 2011, 09:53:24 pm »
very nice looking box or basket. I vote for the lid/top with the cross. Thanks for sharing 
News: Had a couple issues with the forum today. 1/19/2017. I believe I have them corrected now. Let me know if you have any trouble. Thanks.
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32
Brag Forum / Re: Wedding clock - some scrolling, some wood working
« on: March 21, 2011, 09:52:07 pm »
Thanks to everyone for the comments, makes it better to see someone else enjoying your "spoils"
Have a question...do you think I should cut the date from copper or brass? It will be going on the base that is the Gmelia Burl. Leaning towards the brass
Have a question...do you think I should cut the date from copper or brass? It will be going on the base that is the Gmelia Burl. Leaning towards the brass
33
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Work in progress
« on: March 21, 2011, 09:48:04 pm »
Very Nice Dan..can't wait to see it finished! What kind of movement you going to use? one of the inserts I guess?
34
Brag Forum / Re: Wedding clock - some scrolling, some wood working
« on: March 21, 2011, 12:17:56 am »
Last 2 are of the way it is now...first is lit up with the lights on and the scrolling part
Silhouette (cut from approx 1/8" copper) is from their wedding pictures and "C" (cut from approx 1/8" brass) is for their last name initial. Also added the smaller versions of the crystals top and bottom of the initial and they light up from the light string as well.
Second pic is showing the modifications done on the insides to allow the lights to "illuminate" the crystals and house the clock movement. I painted the back piece white to help reflect some light and will do the same on the front piece eventually. Have already painted part of the clock movement silver to do the same.
Next part is to work on the base...going to cut out their wedding date from copper or brass and mount it, still pondering how to do that at this point...more to come....
Silhouette (cut from approx 1/8" copper) is from their wedding pictures and "C" (cut from approx 1/8" brass) is for their last name initial. Also added the smaller versions of the crystals top and bottom of the initial and they light up from the light string as well.
Second pic is showing the modifications done on the insides to allow the lights to "illuminate" the crystals and house the clock movement. I painted the back piece white to help reflect some light and will do the same on the front piece eventually. Have already painted part of the clock movement silver to do the same.
Next part is to work on the base...going to cut out their wedding date from copper or brass and mount it, still pondering how to do that at this point...more to come....
35
Brag Forum / Re: Wedding clock - some scrolling, some wood working
« on: March 21, 2011, 12:10:38 am »
Next set is collage of with the lights figured out...LOTS of routing and sanding, thank goodness for my drill press and dremel bits!!
36
Brag Forum / Re: Wedding clock - some scrolling, some wood working
« on: March 21, 2011, 12:07:53 am »
Second pic is after I had drilled holes for crystals and center of clock movement. Piece of Quilted Maple was cut from the outline of the front to apply to the back to house the LED light string. I know...could I make it any more difficult 
37
Brag Forum / Wedding clock - some scrolling, some wood working
« on: March 21, 2011, 12:02:59 am »
I am making a clock for my sister for her wedding present...she doesn't know I am doing this, but don't think she'll be looking on here 
This is what I started with....
In case you can't read the type very well...Front & Back of clock (Curly Maple) and Front & Back of Base (Gmelia Burl)
Major positions on the clock (12,3,6,9) will be 14mm Art 4866 Bermuda Blue Crystals
Minor positions on the clock will be 20mm Crystal Droplet Prisms
This is what I started with....
In case you can't read the type very well...Front & Back of clock (Curly Maple) and Front & Back of Base (Gmelia Burl)
Major positions on the clock (12,3,6,9) will be 14mm Art 4866 Bermuda Blue Crystals
Minor positions on the clock will be 20mm Crystal Droplet Prisms
38
Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Metal Cutting
« on: March 20, 2011, 11:20:14 pm »
Kind of a repost from http://stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=4871.0 that I started a while back, but thought some of the newer people would find useful. My experience is cutting from Brass, Copper and Aluminum. Most of my aluminum I have cut is .050 PPW (pre-painted white on one side).
Blades I use: Jewelers Blades from Sloan's Woodshop (http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm). Size 1-JW and 2-JW. Most things I found cut the best with the 1-JW because it is smaller and turns the corners better without binding. Saw is set at the lowest speed, which makes it kind of timely on thicker metals. Most alum I have cut is .050 inches. Make sure you tape both front and back (I just use masking tape) so it gives enough to lubricate the blade. You will definitely break blades, but at $12.00 per gross, they are cheap compared to wood blades. Can't push it much with those blades either or they will just break. It's weird, but you can hear the pitch of the blade change just before it breaks. I actually like cutting metals better since there really is no dust, but it makes a mess of the table and I usually have to clean it and rewax the table after doing it.
Note on the PPW Aluminum...Good thing about this is it comes with a protective plastic coating that you can spray on adhesive, stick the pattern on, cut it out and then peel the coating with pattern off very clean when done. I purchased it from a semi-trailer manufacturer, since they use it for the sides of trailers and have lots of scrap pieces.
Only other thing I can think of right off on metals is you will have to sand the backs of all (leaves little burs that come off rather quick) and on brass and copper, sand with very fine grit to get a good shine and then spray with clear coat. Otherwise, every time you touch with your finger, the oil in your hands will tarnish. Also will tarnish in general in very short time.
Thanks for reading...comments welcome!
Blades I use: Jewelers Blades from Sloan's Woodshop (http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm). Size 1-JW and 2-JW. Most things I found cut the best with the 1-JW because it is smaller and turns the corners better without binding. Saw is set at the lowest speed, which makes it kind of timely on thicker metals. Most alum I have cut is .050 inches. Make sure you tape both front and back (I just use masking tape) so it gives enough to lubricate the blade. You will definitely break blades, but at $12.00 per gross, they are cheap compared to wood blades. Can't push it much with those blades either or they will just break. It's weird, but you can hear the pitch of the blade change just before it breaks. I actually like cutting metals better since there really is no dust, but it makes a mess of the table and I usually have to clean it and rewax the table after doing it.
Note on the PPW Aluminum...Good thing about this is it comes with a protective plastic coating that you can spray on adhesive, stick the pattern on, cut it out and then peel the coating with pattern off very clean when done. I purchased it from a semi-trailer manufacturer, since they use it for the sides of trailers and have lots of scrap pieces.
Only other thing I can think of right off on metals is you will have to sand the backs of all (leaves little burs that come off rather quick) and on brass and copper, sand with very fine grit to get a good shine and then spray with clear coat. Otherwise, every time you touch with your finger, the oil in your hands will tarnish. Also will tarnish in general in very short time.
Thanks for reading...comments welcome!
39
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Dremel air blower not working.
« on: March 12, 2011, 09:43:58 pm »
As GB said, it's the "bellows" more than likely. I have the Dremel 1680 myself and it doesn't work any longer either. I have a new one, but it looks like you have to disassemble the whole thing just to get it in. The bellow is inside the housing on the top of the upper arm. Can't see any way to get to it easily, so haven't changed it. Put on an aquarium pump (Elite Model 803) that says up to 20 gallon. Believe I purchased at local pet store. Works much better that the builtin blower!
40
Brag Forum / Re: Treble Clef Clock
« on: March 11, 2011, 12:11:29 am »
Very Nice! I am kind of partial to walnut myself...also like the way you rounded the edges! Thanks for sharing
41
Brag Forum / Re: One for Wife's Brother
« on: March 10, 2011, 12:30:25 am »
I love the way the backer contrasts with the cutout. Great Job! Thanks for sharing!
42
Brag Forum / Re: Plates
« on: March 10, 2011, 12:26:16 am »
Nice cutting Merlin...makes me want to get back to cutting some plates as well. Only thing I didn't like about cutting them was the holder! Always had to monkey with them to get them to fit snug.
Dan...I think they are patterns from the Wildlife series book of plates...don't remember the publisher, but I have some of them as well.
Dan...I think they are patterns from the Wildlife series book of plates...don't remember the publisher, but I have some of them as well.
43
The Coffee Shop / Re: We survived!
« on: March 10, 2011, 12:16:48 am »
I am a kid of the 70's, so I remember all this as well and miss it. Was nice not having a cell phone so anyone can get ahold of you...kids these days don't even know what "playing outside" means for the most part! Thanks Steve!
44
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Gentleman's Box
« on: March 05, 2011, 11:50:18 pm »
Very nice looking Dan! Thanks for showing
45
Brag Forum / Re: Is it too early for a Mothers Day Project?
« on: March 03, 2011, 12:47:19 am »
Very Nice...love the joints on the corners, looks very professional!
