286
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: New DW788.....One happy dude here!!!!
« on: February 18, 2014, 08:50:47 pm »
Sure is pretty
News: Had a couple issues with the forum today. 1/19/2017. I believe I have them corrected now. Let me know if you have any trouble. Thanks.
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287
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: DW788 What to do
« on: February 16, 2014, 07:33:37 am »
I would keep my eye open for a used Hegner or Jet. I have those saws and all have zero front to back movement when cutting. The only time I need to put downward pressure on the wood is while cutting tight corners. Most of the time I can cut using only one hand. I think it is the front to back movement that caused the wood to rise off of the table. I had that as an ongoing problem with a DeWalt I once owned.
288
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Dw788 again
« on: February 10, 2014, 08:38:03 am »
Any front to back movement of the blade while running is unacceptable for fine work. Can also cause the wood to keep pulling up on you while sawing. I had this trouble with a DeWalt myself. I do not have that problem with my Hegner nor my Jet.
289
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: EXCALIBUR SAWS
« on: February 08, 2014, 06:27:51 pm »
Is not Hegner available to you? It is made in Germany.
290
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: DW788 What to do
« on: February 03, 2014, 09:33:07 am »
That knocking sound in the DeWalt killed mine after 20 months. I got rid of it and bought a Hegner. Much sturdier saw.
291
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: what is the best portable scroll saw
« on: January 27, 2014, 09:49:29 am »
DeWalt is portable. I have taken one, that belonged to a friend, to our club meeting and just set it on a table and did a demonstration of doing inlay. I have a 1988 JET 15" scroll saw that is smaller and lighter than a DeWalt. I have taken my Jet to outdoor sales and run it from a battery with an inverter.
292
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Copyright question
« on: January 24, 2014, 08:06:07 am »I have found an end run around this copyright issue on some of the boxes I have been selling.. I contacted an on line store that sells items with this certain logo and now I make wooden items with that image for them to sell. I prefer cutting wood to selling anyway.
...Several years ago I contacted St. Louis University and told them I wanted to do a scrolled memory book cover for my granddaughter's graduation present and asked if it were permissible to use the school logo. The publications division of the school sent me an email asking that I send them a photo of the finished project and provided me with a link to every conceivable logo they have on file for my use.
I sent them the requested photo, was contacted by the president's executive assistant and received an order for 50 copies of the famous "Billiken" with the SLU blue backing and framed in black for his personal use as gifts for special ocassions.
~~~GB~~~
294
Brag Forum / Another Cross with inlay
« on: January 21, 2014, 07:15:34 pm »
24" cedar cross with maple inlay.
295
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: what am i doing wrong?
« on: January 19, 2014, 02:45:56 pm »
I would try slowing down the speed of the saw.
296
Brag Forum / Re: Cross with inlay
« on: January 19, 2014, 11:07:20 am »
EIEIO: I have seen a u-tube video where a guy did what you suggested. He made the frame parts, laid two sides over the other two and cut the corners on his scroll saw in a loop, like you do when making interlocking puzzle pieces. I have not tried this but may, someday. Cutting the corners with a wide cerf saw blade, like on a chop saw or table saw, will shorten the frame a bit so I think a scroll saw would work best for this cut.
297
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Best Band saw
« on: January 19, 2014, 10:55:22 am »
I have the Grizzly G0555 also and use it to resaw mostly. I bought the riser and resaw fence so I could resaw up to 12" boards. I use a 5/8"carbide blade form Grizzly also. Re-sawing generates a lot of dust so I connected it to my dust collection system.
298
Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Enhancing veining
« on: January 18, 2014, 07:59:43 am »
I am not sure how this will work with your project, but I fill in veining in my inlay projects with a paste made of white glue and sanding powder from my random orbital sander. I have also used powdered chalk made for chalk lines, blue or white with the glue. I apply it using an old credit card as a squeegee and sand smooth.
299
Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Finishes
« on: January 18, 2014, 07:53:40 am »
I used to use lacquer a lot but now I just apply two coats of shellac, sanding after each coat and then spray with an acrylic spray from a rattle can, Spray lacquer would also work.
300
Brag Forum / Re: Cross with inlay
« on: January 18, 2014, 07:49:02 am »
Reply to EIEIO : I cut the entire vertical part and the entire horizontal part, then I laid one on top of the other and hot glued them together, front and back. I then took the assembled cross to the chop saw and cut it where they overlap , corner to corner. Toss out the scraps , do the inlay and then glue the four pieces together. After the white glue sets (about 1/2 hour) I apply a 1/8" backer about six inches long, sand the joint in front, smooth and put a metal hanger on the back. I make my own hangers with metal from old band saw blades with the teeth cut off.
