271
Intarsia / Re: Scenic Motorcycle
« on: March 09, 2014, 06:25:18 pm »
WOW! That is impressive! Great job.
News: Had a couple issues with the forum today. 1/19/2017. I believe I have them corrected now. Let me know if you have any trouble. Thanks.
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272
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Stools or chairs for SS
« on: March 09, 2014, 09:17:12 am »
I use and old office chair and have built a stand for one of the saws to the height I like using this chair. I have a second saw on the original standard Hegner stand that I use a little while standing. When I sit at this higher saw the table is just below my chin height. This keeps my back straight and my eyes close to the blade.
273
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Font
« on: March 07, 2014, 09:26:47 pm »
I use "Lucida Handwriting" in Word.
274
Brag Forum / Re: Wheelie
« on: March 02, 2014, 11:59:51 am »
Very nice design and cut. Looks like Mahogany to me.
275
General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: New bandsaw
« on: February 28, 2014, 09:29:13 am »
I bought my GO555 in 2008 and it has served me well. I have replaced the blade guide bearings with inexpensive bearings I bought locally. I have the riser and use carbide blades to do a lot of 8" re-sawing. Cedar, oak, maple and walnut.
276
Brag Forum / Re: Keepsake boxes
« on: February 26, 2014, 09:47:19 pm »
Nice Job. I sure like those bow boxes.
277
Brag Forum / Re: Inlay
« on: February 26, 2014, 02:03:08 pm »I hope this is not inappropriate to ask, but, what will something like these sell for? They're all beautiful.I sold two of these for $20. Takes about an hour to make and materials cost for me is Less than $2 per cross.
278
Brag Forum / Re: Inlay
« on: February 23, 2014, 11:20:58 am »
Thank you for the kind comments. Cedar is a very pretty and popular wood, is cheap ($2.10/ Board foot) I have eighteen of these made and have already sold two. I find them easy and quick to make and total material cost is $1.55. Inlay is a useful technique in decorating various items. I use it on whatever I can and the crosses is my latest idea.
280
Brag Forum / Inlay
« on: February 22, 2014, 05:41:28 pm »
Many people here in West Texas collect crosses to display in their home, so I made a few that I hope to sell this summer at the street fairs and festivals I attend. 18" tall , 3/8" cedar with maple inlay.
281
Brag Forum / Re: bicycle air pump money gift
« on: February 21, 2014, 03:53:26 pm »
Clever! Nice job.
282
Brag Forum / Re: Inlay in cedar trunk
« on: February 20, 2014, 06:22:14 pm »
A few have asked me how I do my inlay:
This is how I do double bevel inlay.
I use 3/8" cedar and inlay 3/8" soft maple into it. I also use have used oak, walnut, and maple. I have used mahogany a few times also. I have one of my scroll saws set to 2.2 degrees, approximately, that I use only for inlays. I set that angle with a Wixie but you can also do it by trial and error and it is just as good a way to do it. This is how to get the right angle: Stack the two woods you want to use, scraps. Tape or hot glue them together. Do some trial cuts starting at 2 degrees and adjusting up until you get the fit needed. Start at the edge and cut out the shape of a mushroom, freehand, and see how it fits. With the table tilted down on the left of the blade and keeping the image you want to inlay to the right of the blade make your mushroom cut and see how well the bottom wood after doing the cutting, fits into the upper. If it will not go all the way up you need to lessen the angle and if the bottom wood comes up to high you need to sharpen the angle closer to 3 degrees. I move mine about two tenths of a degree at a time. Remember a little too loose a fit is better than too tight a fit.
I inlay into cedar mostly and if it is too tight a fit and I try hammering it in place with a plastic hammer I split the cedar. Perfect fit can be attained with many trial and error mushrooms. I leave most of mine just a little loose and fill any slight gaps with a mixture of white glue and sanding powder of the base wood. Cedar in my case. I use Flying Dutchman Polar #5 blades but whatever you use be consistent. I hot glue the wood to be inlaid to the underside of the base wood and draw the image or lettering on the top wood. I drill 1/16? starter hole or holes at six degrees toward the outside of the image with the image to the right of the drill bit. This six degrees will cause this starter hole to not appear in the final inlay. It enters inside the image on top and exits outside the image on the bottom. After drilling the starter hole just inside the image insert the saw blade and cut the image out keeping the image to the right of the blade. Cut the entire image out, remove the bottom wood scrap and do a dry fit of your image. If it fits well enough tape the top image piece to the bottom one and cut any interior lines you want in the image in a scroll saw set at 90 degrees. Make all these interior cuts so that the wood does not fall apart. Keeping ?bridges? of wood to hold the image together in one piece. I cut these two images together for two reasons. (1) The internal lines are not on the lower piece and (2) cutting this ?? thickness gives you more control of your cut. Slows your feed rate down a little.
Now apply glue (I use Elmer?s white glue) to the edge of the piece to be inlaid and spread it all along the edge using a small artists? brush. Insert the inlay from the back side of the base wood and push in place. After glue is set, sand or plane smooth, both sides. Using a mix of white glue and sanding powder (From the base wood, or the inlay wood) and a credit card as a squeegee force it into any slight gaps or cracks in your inlay. Let it dry and sand again. Repeat a few times because the glue mixture will shrink a little.
I hope these instructions will help.
If you have any questions Email me Jimtfinn@aol.com
This is how I do double bevel inlay.
I use 3/8" cedar and inlay 3/8" soft maple into it. I also use have used oak, walnut, and maple. I have used mahogany a few times also. I have one of my scroll saws set to 2.2 degrees, approximately, that I use only for inlays. I set that angle with a Wixie but you can also do it by trial and error and it is just as good a way to do it. This is how to get the right angle: Stack the two woods you want to use, scraps. Tape or hot glue them together. Do some trial cuts starting at 2 degrees and adjusting up until you get the fit needed. Start at the edge and cut out the shape of a mushroom, freehand, and see how it fits. With the table tilted down on the left of the blade and keeping the image you want to inlay to the right of the blade make your mushroom cut and see how well the bottom wood after doing the cutting, fits into the upper. If it will not go all the way up you need to lessen the angle and if the bottom wood comes up to high you need to sharpen the angle closer to 3 degrees. I move mine about two tenths of a degree at a time. Remember a little too loose a fit is better than too tight a fit.
I inlay into cedar mostly and if it is too tight a fit and I try hammering it in place with a plastic hammer I split the cedar. Perfect fit can be attained with many trial and error mushrooms. I leave most of mine just a little loose and fill any slight gaps with a mixture of white glue and sanding powder of the base wood. Cedar in my case. I use Flying Dutchman Polar #5 blades but whatever you use be consistent. I hot glue the wood to be inlaid to the underside of the base wood and draw the image or lettering on the top wood. I drill 1/16? starter hole or holes at six degrees toward the outside of the image with the image to the right of the drill bit. This six degrees will cause this starter hole to not appear in the final inlay. It enters inside the image on top and exits outside the image on the bottom. After drilling the starter hole just inside the image insert the saw blade and cut the image out keeping the image to the right of the blade. Cut the entire image out, remove the bottom wood scrap and do a dry fit of your image. If it fits well enough tape the top image piece to the bottom one and cut any interior lines you want in the image in a scroll saw set at 90 degrees. Make all these interior cuts so that the wood does not fall apart. Keeping ?bridges? of wood to hold the image together in one piece. I cut these two images together for two reasons. (1) The internal lines are not on the lower piece and (2) cutting this ?? thickness gives you more control of your cut. Slows your feed rate down a little.
Now apply glue (I use Elmer?s white glue) to the edge of the piece to be inlaid and spread it all along the edge using a small artists? brush. Insert the inlay from the back side of the base wood and push in place. After glue is set, sand or plane smooth, both sides. Using a mix of white glue and sanding powder (From the base wood, or the inlay wood) and a credit card as a squeegee force it into any slight gaps or cracks in your inlay. Let it dry and sand again. Repeat a few times because the glue mixture will shrink a little.
I hope these instructions will help.
If you have any questions Email me Jimtfinn@aol.com
283
Brag Forum / Re: Shopping bag dispenser
« on: February 19, 2014, 08:57:04 am »
Good job! Nice idea. My wife makes and sells plastic bag dispensers also but she crochets them. I need to make some like yours with inlay and offer them for sale also.
284
Brag Forum / Re: Inlay in cedar trunk
« on: February 19, 2014, 08:54:00 am »
Thank you for the kind words. Folks:Once you know how, and are set up for it, double bevel inlay is a snap. The actual cutting time on each of those inlays takes about ten minutes. It is simple but unforgiving. You cannot go back and correct a "miss the line" cut like you can in fretwork.
285
Brag Forum / Inlay in cedar trunk
« on: February 18, 2014, 08:57:24 pm »
I just finished this trunk with maple inlays. 26" long 15" wide and 18" tall. I have made over fifty trunks similar to this one but this is the first one with inlays on it. Four sixes is the name and brand of a local horse and cattle ranch
