Messages

181

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Collapsing basket

« on: March 04, 2015, 12:03:55 pm »

I don't want to start an argument with julief but, I would do exactly the opposite.
Assuming you use the same wood, thickness and blade, I would reduce the angle. If you cut the first at 3 degrees and it won't open, I would change the angle to 2-1/2 degrees. If that is still not enough, I would go to 2 degrees. The closer you get to a 90 degree cut, the looser the segments will get.
It is all just a SWAG thing at first so experimentation is required to get a final answer to your question.

Rog

182

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: bowls

« on: March 02, 2015, 11:03:20 am »

I think that you're OK.
Now go get the Johnsons or Minwax paste wax and wipe on a coat, let it dry a bit and then buff out to a sheen. If necessary, do it again and again. Until you like the finish and it is a smooth soft looking glow.
This won't give you a real GLOSSY sheen, more of a SEMI GLOSS but, in my opinion makes for a very smooth and rich looking wooden bowl.
If for some reason you don't care for "that" look, let every thing dry for a few days and grab the sand paper and sand back down to wood and try again. OR, re spray with more coats of glossy and lightly sand between each coat except for the last one.
In my opinion you have done everything the way I would have done it.
The one thing that may have caused a problem is that you didn't let the BLO dry long enough. It will set up and get hard and seal the wood and pop the grain but it does need time to dry. Like maybe even two days depending on how much you applied. Most of the time, I wipe on the BLO with a rag, let it set for an hour or two and wipe it down (even as far as rubbing it in) and apply finish the next day or two.
Some things just cant be rushed and watching paint dry is one of them. 

Rog

183

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: ROS

« on: February 28, 2015, 10:38:05 pm »

I have a PC 5" ros also and I only use 120 to 400 grit paper on it. I don't consider it as "more aggressive" at all, I consider it as making things a lot "smoother and flatter"
I have a De Walt 1/4 sheet sander that I seldom use and three Mouse sanders with a different grit paper on each one. 80, 120 and 220 grit papers.
I also have flapper wheels and other attachments for the drill press as well as a Ridgid spindle sander for other than flatwork.
I do a lot of woodworking of small items other than scrolling and I HATE sanding so I make it as easy an quick as I can on myself. 

Rog

184

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Dumb Question

« on: February 27, 2015, 04:23:46 pm »

A #1 is the biggest numbered bit and a #80 is the smallest bit.
Hope that helps.

Rog

185

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Back after layoff

« on: February 26, 2015, 11:47:43 am »

I really like that!  Very original and beautiful. True art work! 
I won't ask where you got the pattern but, it gives me some ideas for something of my own. 

Rog

186

The Coffee Shop / Re: Always pay attention to your sweetie! Watch to the end

« on: February 23, 2015, 09:55:37 am »

That was a RIOT!  I do think it was a real thing. I've known people "in their own world" like that.

Rog

187

The Coffee Shop / Re: Have I got a deal for you !!

« on: February 20, 2015, 09:38:03 am »

Thanks but, NO THANKS! It is cold enough for me here in Kansas.
Besides, I'm retired and VERY happy about that!

Rog

188

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: knobs

« on: February 16, 2015, 10:50:24 am »

Both my Ace Hardware and Hobby Lobby have a small selection of wooden knobs but, I don't know if they have a match for the one you pictured.
I have made my own knobs from time to time but, I don't have a lathe so I use the scroll saw (cut them like a 3-D pattern) and end up with square knobs or the drill press and a wood rasp. Needless to say, you have to start with a larger than necessary piece of wood and work it down until it is what you want and cut to length.

Rog

189

The Coffee Shop / Re: hypothetical but could be possibility

« on: February 13, 2015, 09:30:17 pm »

I'll give you a list of tools but, as far as brand, I have no comment. Every major tool brand excels in one or two (or a few more) basic tools and no one brand does them all. You will just have to do some research by talking to other wood workers and join in on any of several woodworking sites on line.
AND, I WILL TELL YOU THIS, every response is going to recommend a different brand. but, These days most big brands make good tools. Price will inter into your decisions and I will remind you that in MOST cases, you get what you pay for. 

As far as basic tools...

work bench
table saw
band saw
planer
jointer
drum sander
osculating spindle sander
drill press and a set of bits
router and bits
electric hand sanders
hand drill
cordless screwdrivers
Well, the list goes on and on.
And as far as hand tools....well, I just don't have time for that!

So much depends on what you are building and if you are going into production in large numbers or one-offs.

Have fun and keep us informed along the way.

Rog

190

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Warping Pine

« on: February 11, 2015, 06:57:19 pm »

OK. If you are buying from a lumber yard, more than likely it is kiln dried. Which is not necessarily a bad thing but, it is dried faster in a kiln and they are not real concerned about moisture content in construction lumber as they are in more exotic lumber.
The concrete floor is putting moisture into the bottom face of your board and the air above the board is drying out the top face causing the warp problem. The main idea is to get the moisture content down to about 8% but much more importantly, it needs to be as close to equal through out the board as you can.
The center of the board will still be damper than any of the outside surface anyway. I have taken totally straight and seemingly dry boards and re-sawed them to thinner stock and they warped as they went through the saw. It takes a long time (in a kiln or air dried) to get lumber dry enough and of equal moisture content through out the thickness and stay flat.
On another site that I frequent that deals mostly in furniture making, people assemble tables allowing for wood movement due to humidity in the air from summer to winter. 
Just buy your lumber, leave it stacked and stickered (OFF THE CONCRETE FLOOR!) for as long as you can before using it, and cut off the amount you need right now and leave your drop as long as you can and put it back on the stack to dry out more (especially on the cut end) and you should be good to go! 
You could also stand the board on end leaning against the wall but, keep it as nearly to vertical as possible without it falling forward, and make sure air can get to the entire surface. You may want to flip it end for end and face to face from time to time (at least once a week)
Happy scrolling!

Rog

191

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Warping Pine

« on: February 10, 2015, 11:43:35 pm »

I agree with Russ but, I have a few more questions before I answer.

1. Where do you buy your wood? Lumber yard, home center, saw mill ?

2. Do you know if it is kiln dried or air dried? If it is from a saw mill, how long has it been since it was cut into lumber?

3. How do you store your wood? Do you lay it flat on a table or floor? If it is on the floor, is the floor concrete? (a real bad idea  ) If it is laying horizontal, do you sticker it? (put short pieces between the boards for air circulation) Do you store it on end (vertical)? Are you leaving space for air circulation or move it around (re stack) it from time to time?

4. How long is it between the time you buy it and cut it up into shorter pieces ? (Russ suggested the acclimation problem also.) And from the rough cutting to the time you are ready to use it?

If you want to try to flatten out an already warped piece, first try standing the piece on end (or edge) in a place that air can circulate all around it for a few days. If that doesn't do it, you can wet the concave (dish) side with water and use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to slowly dry it laying on the bench. (Sometimes you can almost watch it flatten out doing this.) and then sticker it between other boards and put some heavy weight (sand bag or barbell weights for example) and let it sit for a few days.
Like gravity, wood movement is just a fact of life. Wood does move and it moves the way it wants to, not the way you want it to, and sometimes you can't do anything about it.....But, you can try! 

Rog

192

Toy Makers / Re: thinking out of the box

« on: February 08, 2015, 11:55:24 am »

That was a GREAT video! I enjoyed every minute of it!
The guy must live in a junk yard to come up with all those different pieces and parts!
There was a guy on "American Pickers" who made quite a few smaller things like that as well as full sized, drivable cars out of scrap pieces and parts. He was an artist that lived in California and had a fantastic imagination. 

Rog

193

Brag Forum / Re: Grand daughters barbie bed

« on: February 06, 2015, 10:26:57 am »

I've made something for each of my grandchildren every year for the last 7 or 8 years. I have five grandkids, two boys and three girls and now they range in age from 6 to 15. It is getting harder and harder to come up with something different each year.
I made everything from doll furniture and jigsaw puzzles to keepsake boxes and even a bed headboard for a queen size bed.
The older kids (parents) get the same thing every year.......$......and seem to enjoy it.
And I enjoy making all the games, trucks, rocking horses and puzzles etc. etc.
Thanks for the comments.

Rog

194

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Your free pattern - Anchors Aweigh

« on: February 04, 2015, 10:21:21 am »

Then there are words like PAIL and PALE. OR, OAR and ORE. They all sound the same but have completely different spellings and meanings.
Ahh, ENGLISH! My only language. 

Rog

195

Brag Forum / Re: Grand daughters barbie bed

« on: February 04, 2015, 10:05:28 am »

Very nice job on the bed. 

I made some doll sized tables and chairs for two of my grand daughters (I have three now) for Christmas about 7 or 8 years ago. The upholstery was made by gluing some velvet to pieces of scrap wood which was then glued to the chairs.
Sorry for the bad photo, it was taken with my old camera. 



Rog