Messages

151

Brag Forum / Band saw boxes

« on: April 06, 2016, 09:14:12 pm »

After making over two thousand boxes with images inlaid into the hinged lids I decided to try making band saw boxes.  These eleven are my first attempt.  Made of cedar, maple and walnut.  Most measure nine inches by four inches tall and four inches deep. 

152

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Cutting letters

« on: April 05, 2016, 08:07:28 pm »

I cut 3/4" wood mostly and I use #5 blades.  You may like them.

153

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: resawing

« on: April 05, 2016, 06:26:39 pm »

I re-saw a lot.  I agree with all that has been said above.  I have a larger saw (14") and re-saw using a 1/2" carbide blade I get at Supercuts.  New blade, high tension, slow feed rate.

154

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Cutting Inlays

« on: April 05, 2016, 06:22:13 pm »

Yep, that's the kind of thing I'd like to do.  Beautiful work!

Just having someone say that the corners are hard is a big help.  I was really afraid I was going to get a lot of replies saying it wasn't such a big deal.  Thanks Jim.

One clarification though, if you don't mind, by putting your lighter wood underneath the cedar, do you then insert your eagle into the cedar from underneath as opposed to what Steve Good does on his dolphin box inlay video?

Dennis
 

 Yes  the white wood that is underneath then fits into the hole cut on top.  Yes it fits in from the bottom.  If you do it the way I do you need to cut in a different direction than if you put the light wood on top.  While sawing, I keep the image to the right of my blade with the left side of my saw tilted down.

155

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Cutting Inlays

« on: April 04, 2016, 10:20:50 pm »

I do a lot of inlays...  over 2000 to date.  Making sharp turns is not easy.  here is a photo of one and you may be able to see that the sharp turns on the feather tips are slightly rounded.  I use a #5 blade but I suppose a smaller blade may turn sharper.  I put the wood to be inlaid (in this example maple) under the cedar and draw the pattern on the top of the cedar.  This may help in cutting the sharp turns.  You can email me if you like and I will help any way I can.  Jimtfinn@aol.com

P.S.  This eagle is about the hardest to cut pattern that I do.

156

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: foot switch

« on: April 04, 2016, 10:13:51 pm »

On my Poly Max saw, the foot switch will turn the saw off but not on, works for 1/2 of the process, better 1/2 than nothing at all, and on my 14" Hegner which is on wheels/castors, (like most of my machines and work benches, because of limited space, and I can wheel them around and out to the drive way) that I have heavily  modified by using a jack shaft and different motor and pulley and belt, I have the the foot switch zip tied to the stand, and use my knee to turn the saw on and off, so I guess I could call it a knee switch.  I like using the foot switch and it could be used on different machines. Or maybe  a safety switch like on a table saw.  dan in Pa

     I also have a Polymax and wanted a foot switch so I took the motor to a elect motor shop and had them replace the original magnetic switch with a regular rocker switch.  I then use a Harbor Freight foot switch and it works well for me.

157

Pattern Requests. / Re: Pattern

« on: April 03, 2016, 11:53:55 am »

How about replacing the foot with a heart?

158

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: foot switch

« on: March 30, 2016, 09:19:57 pm »

I use the tap on tap off switch from Harbor Freight also.  Six of them.  I have one on each of two scroll saws, one on my drill press, band saw, and on both of my stationary belt sanders.

159

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Blade angle

« on: March 23, 2016, 07:45:35 pm »

I have two Hegners 20" and 25" and a  15"Jet.  the arc is slight because much of the whole arm swings up and down not just the front few inches like a DeWalt or Excalibur.

160

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Blade angle

« on: March 23, 2016, 09:51:42 am »

My saws run the blade straight up and down.  No movement fore and aft.  I think that if this were not so I would have trouble making tight turns in thicker stock.  I cut a lot of 3/4" stack to do my inlays and can cut pretty sharp angles with a #5 blade.  That is how I cut this:

161

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: ex-21 air bellows

« on: March 19, 2016, 08:58:01 am »

I finally gave up on using the air supplied from the bellows on my Hegner saws.  I now have an $8 hair dryer blowing all the sawdust away as I saw.

162

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Cutting veins

« on: March 16, 2016, 08:39:22 am »

I am not doing fretwork.  I do a lot of inlay and some veining is involved.  I just use a #5 straight blade.

163

Introduce Yourself. / Re: Hello from UK

« on: March 14, 2016, 11:07:54 pm »

I have been making cedar boxes with images inlaid into the hinged lids using the "double bevel inlay " method using a scroll saw.  You might like to try that.
      I make and sell about 300 of them a year.
       Last week I started making band saw boxes similar to some of yours.  It appears that in making band saw boxes the choice of the wood is very important to the over all appearance of the box.  Not so much with a lot of  scroll saw work, (except for Intarsia).

164

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Not sure what blade to use

« on: March 14, 2016, 10:51:52 pm »

I am cutting 3/4" wood all the time and use #5 blades.  #7 also work but seem to cut a bit slower for me.

165

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: A matter of practicality?

« on: March 14, 2016, 10:47:34 pm »

This is what I have tried with success:  Remove the dulled blade, cut off bottom 1/2"-3/4" of the blade with tin snips.  Re install, and you will be using fresh saw teeth.  My Saws will adjust to the shorter blade but I do not know if all saws will.  (I have Hegner saws)