Messages

151

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: what NOT to try and build

« on: July 29, 2015, 11:23:10 am »

You poor man.       Are you all out of wood?   
Maybe we should take up a collection of scraps from all the other members and send them to you. 
I can't imagine what you were thinking by using Legos to make a power tool like a lathe.   

Rog

152

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Blade for 3/4 pine

« on: July 21, 2015, 11:08:01 am »

You can blame it on the blades if you want to but, I'll bet that by the third clock you will wonder how come they cut so much better this time.
It is just a matter of practice and getting used to the material and the blades that solves most of our problems.

Rog

153

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Tree Cookies

« on: July 19, 2015, 11:15:23 am »

If you are cutting through the trunk of the tree to make "cookies", you are in for a rude surprise. IT IS GOING TO CRACK AND SPLIT.
Even if you cut 6" thick slabs and use it right away (while it is wet) it will crack and split eventually. If you cut it 8'0" long and wait for it to dry (which would be a VERY long time) and cut cookies, more than likely it will crack and split.
How do people manage to get those cookies that you've seen? I don't know but, if I did I would tell you how it is done.
I do know that if you cut it as a log or split it long ways for lumber, you need to seal the ends with paint or a special sealer for the purpose and then wait for the wood to dry out. The normal guess is about one year for each inch of thickness of the lumber to get a usable moisture content in the wood (between 8 and 12 percent moisture is usable)
Wood moves and there is NO getting around that.
I would guess your best bet for "cookies' is to find an OLD, DRIED OUT, SOLID log in the woods and cut across the diameter with a chain saw (which is not n easy thing to do) for the best stability of the wood.

Rog

154

The Coffee Shop / Re: Different Finishes Chat.... :+}

« on: July 19, 2015, 10:53:47 am »

I have a mix that I call "Rude and Crude".
It is 1/3 BLO (for grain popping), 1/3 polyurethane (for sealing the pores) and 1/3 mineral spirits (for mixing and faster drying). Then I finish with several coats of straight poly for a smooth and glossy (if that is your thing) surface.
It is NOT the end all finish but, it works for me. I've never used Danish oil so, I have nothing to compare it to.
It never hurts to try different things because you just may discover YOUR favorite fast, easy and best looking finish.

Rog

PS it also never hurts to sand each coat of finish with brown paper bag to knock down the little nubs rising from the grain or dust in the air.

155

The Coffee Shop / Re: Grand Patience

« on: July 08, 2015, 10:38:04 am »

As a grandfather of five....I LOVE THAT ONE!! 

Rog

156

Brag Forum / Re: Moneybox gun pattern by Bob

« on: July 02, 2015, 11:14:09 am »

Don't try to keep your bankroll hidden in that if you plan to get on an airplane! 
I believe a famous bank robber named John Dillinger once escaped from jail using a wooden gun. 
Otherwise, it is an interesting project. Good work.

Rog

157

Brag Forum / Re: Sewing Box

« on: June 26, 2015, 10:19:44 am »

I really like that!
It is beautiful, useful and very good workmanship too.

Rog

158

Brag Forum / Re: Train for my Brother

« on: June 26, 2015, 10:17:20 am »

Wow!
I'm impressed!
And I like the use of the brass with all the wood too.
Good.....No, EXLENT job!

Rog

159

Ask Steve a question. / Re: glueing

« on: June 23, 2015, 11:12:55 am »

Generally speaking wood glue does not like to stick to any kind of finish.
There are those here that have found some glues that they have had success with as far as using with finish. But, as far as I'm concerned the only way to do what you are wanting to do is keep certain areas free of finish by sanding or taping over small places before finishing the back board.
If you can keep a wood to wood contact patch between the two pieces and just use dabs of glue in those areas, they will stick like glue! 
When you fill the pores of the wood with a finish, there is no place for the glue to adhere to because the pores are what the glue uses also.
It is just one of those things that you have to plan ahead for.

Rog

160

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: First Time!

« on: June 16, 2015, 10:51:44 am »

I haven't done any craft shows but I have done the monthly flea market we have here.
I totally agree with what Judy had to say.
I would display one or two of several completely different items and hide the excess under the table. I tried to make it look like a person was buying a truly "one off" item (even though I might have six more just like it)  and see which way "the wind blew" as far as different things that appealed to "this" bunch of folks went.   
Then I could replace the sold items in just a few minutes for another "one off " looker.    I would just remember what was selling at this show for next time. 
I had everything, from crosses to puzzles to fret work and even a rubber band gun! Ya just never know! 

Rog

161

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Foot speed controller

« on: June 15, 2015, 07:44:14 pm »

No Tony, It wont hurt the saw or the blade to stop the motor suddenly at the corner.
Sometimes you can just stop cutting at the corner and back the blade up back down the cut (with the motor running) and turn over to the other side of the corner or, you can stop the motor and do the same thing. Then after cutting out all of the center section out, go back in the opposite direction to clean up the corner to 90 degrees. (or what ever degrees is required)
Everyone has their own special way to skin this cat. 
I don't think you can hurt a scroll saw short of throwing it on the floor or setting it on fire. The electrical problems are the only real worry and they can usually be repaired. Wearing it out from use or lack of mantaince are the real issues.

Rog 

162

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Foot speed controller

« on: June 14, 2015, 12:33:52 pm »

I use a "dead man" foot controller and would not be with out it!
Granted, you must keep your foot on it to make the saw run but, that is easier than trying to control the speed of the blade with your foot.
The reason I like it so much is that when you need to stop at the end of a cut, all you have to do is lift your foot and it STOPS! No feeling around with your foot to kill the power or letting go with one hand to hit the switch letting the blade run a few more strokes thus causing a "blurb" at the stopping point.
Also, you can keep both hands controlling the work piece at all times using a foot operated "on-off" switch.

Just my two cents worth.

Rog

163

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: poly finish problem

« on: June 03, 2015, 12:39:19 pm »

Oak is very porous and will soak up a lot of finish. I generally do a coat of shellac and bit of sanding first before staining or finishing any wood.
However, in this case, it is a bit late so, I would recommend to just keep adding coats of poly and sanding a bit with high grit paper or brown paper bag between coats. Eventually the pores will fill up with poly and you will get the shiny, smooth finish of your desires.
By the way, as you probably already know, the end grain is even worse as far as soaking up stain and finish. End grain is like a handful of soda straws and just keeps pulling it in. I usually sand end grain very well with a finer grit paper than the rest of the board and put on two or three coats of shellac before any stain or finish to "clog" up the soda straws ahead of time. It still may end up a different color but, it will be a lot closer to matching.

Rog

164

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: My first cutting of metal - need advice.

« on: June 02, 2015, 11:00:34 am »

For once, I have NO real or serious answers for you. I'm looking forward to what others with experience have to say about it.
My only thought about the pattern problem is to use carbon paper and trace the pattern directly onto the metal surface. Or sandwich the metal between two pieces of wood which would probably be a waste of materials in both metal and wood.
As for sharp edges my only idea is to sand or file the edges by hand and forget any powered tools on such a small piece. If you use REALLY fine sandpaper (like 800 grit) you may be able to remove fine scratches with metal polish (or even toothpaste) but, it is still a lot of hand work.
A rock tumbler is out of the realm of my knowledge. I know what they are and have seen them used but mostly for larger more durable parts and materials.
As for making necklaces (which would be my first plan for them) it really depends on the shape and size of the cutting. Either would work well, it is just a personal choice.
I saw your pieces in the "Brag" section and really like them. Good job! You have inspired me to try some as I have three grand daughters.
Now for my questions.....How thick of material do you use and what blades? I assume you use metal cutting blades but, who knows?

Rog

165

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: plexiglass window

« on: June 02, 2015, 10:30:37 am »

A coarse file and sand paper and patients.
It's a lot of work and no fun but, in my opinion it is the best way to get a smooth edge when working on getting such a small amount removed from a Plexiglas piece.
You can score a line along the correct dimension and work down to it just to give you a goal to work to.

Rog