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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: dgman on January 15, 2012, 04:55:14 pm
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Wouldn't it be great if a manufacturer would come to us for input for the "Ultimate Scroll Saw"? What would you want on it? Here are just a few from me. The ability to top feed and bottom feed. A top arm that can stay up on its own and come down by gravity. Quick clamps that will hold the blade securely without them slipping or bending. Easy tensioning. Perfect up and down motion of the blade. A sealed switch and a fully adjustable stand. These are just a few, What would you ask for?
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Interesting post, dgman. I like all your answers. How about a blower that was long enough to blow dust away from you and powerful enough to really move the dust.
Barry
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wider table top
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sounds like my EX-21-- but I would love a good light incorporated into the unit--Richard aka thumbs
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I have to say I want everything you all have mentioned!
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Sure do sound almost like my EX21.
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I will think of something Dan and it doesn't sound like my Ex 21 it dos most of the things you don't want it to do and a few more
Jimbo
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How about tilting the blade instead of the table? My Delta 40-690 tilts the table but I could see tilting the blade could be useful. Yes, thumbs, just like the EX21. :)
I do have to admit I haven't tilted my table, yet.
Jim
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Dust collector instead of a dust blower for both the top and bottom of the table. But I do like yours.
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Hmm...how about an adjustable table. One that could be raised to take advantange of the unused part of the blades. The thickest I usually cut is 1", so the top 3/4" of the blade never gets used.
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All the idea's sound great!d
I like the adjustable stand idea, which would allow you raise or lower the saw to any height you wanted (from standing position to sitting in any chair you choose).
Heck lets ad a built in adjustable & detachable magnifier
Tink
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How about a stand that can autoly lift and lower, also each end of the stand can be autoly lowered or rasied for the right angle and highth.
gene
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I forgot to mention that since we are designing this saw, for all that reply with a suggestion, we get a prototype to test drive!
I definitely like the idea of good dust collection. Maybe with a four inch and 2 1/2" ports for using a shop vac or a dust collector.
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When will this happen Dan?
gene
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Instead of the usual approaches to dust collection, how about a downdraft type system around the table. A ready attachment for a magnification system would help as well.
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If it can't have a dust collection system, could it have a longer blower so that it will actually blow away from you. A really good light and maybe a timer, so that you can see how long something takes.
Marg
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Have you ever herd of a manufacturer listen to a mere mortal on what they require??????????????????
Jimbo
PS dreams are good
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Hi
Let's add an adjustable seat to it while were at it
If we were to get all the above incorporated into a saw, what would you be willing to pay for such an animal??
Fab4
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How about an auto shut down for when a blade breaks so those fine pieses bon't get mangled.
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Great Idea Jah!
My additional wish list:
- silent operation.
- integrated light to see the holes from bottom side.
- resonable table (not too short on the front end)
- simple to exchange 0 clearance inset of soft plastic (I would not argue if I could buy them and do not have to make them myself).
- Foot switch I guess - I have none yet, but I'm looking forward to that.
- as less as possible blade movement (front back).
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How about a decent quality saw that doesn't cost as much as my mortgage payment?
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I thank that the rbi hawks are the best there is and most of the replys match them it don't have a down draft table that wood be nice kind of like the ex saws have that are made for across the water I love my RBI hawks I have two of them
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I'm with you Joey. I had a 16 inch RBI and now have a 26" and wouldn't trade it for any saw I have had my hands on. I really hope that Bushton MFG (the current owners) restores RBI to its place in the market.
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Different folks have different needs. I do not do fretwork, so top feed is not a big deal to me. I cut mostly 1"-2" thick wood and do a lot of inlay work. I had a very smooth and easy to operate saw (DeWalt) but it was not durable. To me a great saw will last over 2 years. I finally found that in a Hegner. I wore out the others in less than 20 months.
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Hey Dan you can collate all these ideas and send them off to a manufacturer and make sure when they have made it, it is available in NZ
Thanks Dan
Jimbo
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I have to agree with Bill the diver and joey, I also cut with an rbi 26". I wouldn't bet on bushton too much, I had a bad time getting parts out of them.
I have cut with a few other saws, would not part with my rbi.
Rick
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All these sounds good to me. The saw that we all want sounds like a mash up between an excalibur and an eclipse!
Leldon
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So when can we expect delivery.
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How about a laser head instead of blade.
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I think you guys covered all the things I'd want, but just in case:
Parallel blade motion
Quiet (parallel motion should make it quiet)
Front tension release
Arm that raises and stays in place until you put in the new blade.
Magnifier light
Downdraft with the vacuum machine not noisy
Tilts the head instead of the table
Foot pedal (I don't use it but some do)
Adjustable stand
Wide table - depth doesn't really matter to me but probably at least 20"
Tool free blade changes - the Hegner needs a tool - not really a problem, but if we are wishing....
Tension control that actually holds the tension
Table to blade distance adjustable - for those rare things that are bigger, and so we would use the whole blade.
I like the slotted table on the Hegner. If I am having lots of little inside cuts on a wide project, even lifting the arm still make me stand on my head. With the slot I can remove the piece and blade with the bottom clamp attached and then slide it back into the saw. The top clamp attaches easily. This means more to me every day that it seems my vision decreases.
On table work shelf to keep blades, etc. handy. Also good for reassembling puzzles as they are cut.
Make the table and lamp movable from right to left side of the saw for us lefties.
Stops when blade breaks & arm raises automatically.
Durability - for what this thing will probably cost it had better last under heavy use.
I don't want much, do I?
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I think Cathy has nailed it. The only things I would change is make the foot switch optional as not everyone uses one, and make the top arm adjustable to stay up on its own or let it come down by gravity.
The original Excalibur saw had an optional foot pedal to raise and lower the upper arm. This might be a good option.
also maybe a built in timer to keep track of the project cutting time and saw time.
But I think the most important thing is reliability, and a five year warranty and maybe free financing as this saw is going to cost a fortune!
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Great thread, thanks.
Started on a Hitachi, moved to and EX-21, and also picked up a DW 788 and a Hawk VS 21 and 26.
The Hawk has issues with power at slow speeds, as well as with blade changes and it is a bottom feeder, period. The DW needs Hercules to adjust the arm tension and the maximum lift of the arm barely accommodates a small stack. The tension adjustment and the blade clamps are very good.
The EX has decent blade clamps, but has a tendency to release the blade from the lower clamp, a feature not found on the DW 788. The over-center tensioning on the EX works, but is a very poor second to the DW 788. The EX has the tilting head which is a fabulous feature for those doing bowls because you are not fighting gravity as you make your cuts.
Dust collection is pretty easy with a box fan and a filter, no matter the saw.
Net of everything, the EX is close to perfect for my needs but needs a few tweaks and it would be great if General and/or Ray were reading this.
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Hey Terry, The upper arm on the DW 788 is not designed to stay up. It is designed for top feeding so the arm is designed to come down on its own.
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Hey Terry, The upper arm on the DW 788 is not designed to stay up. It is designed for top feeding so the arm is designed to come down on its own.
Unless you add an "Easy Lift". Which I have done. Actually, I made my own and can adjust it so that I have to hold the arm down a little to clamp the blade. Or, you can use a block of wood to hold arm up like alot of others have done. ;D
Rog
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I hope you have all these notes written down Dan as it is up to you to get all these good ideas to the manufacturers so they can see where they have gone wrong
Jimbo
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I don't have to write them down, Their all right here!
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dgman, I had Hercules come by and work on the DW and he got it to where the upper arm needs just a wee bit of help to come down, enough that you can thread the blade and gently feed it thru the tiny itsy-bitsy hole without catching the teeth on the workpiece and bend the blade to pretzel shape.
If the same gut designed both saws, you wonder why he did not use the best of each. That would be pretty close to your perfect saw. But we all figure out how to get them to do what needs doing.
Terry
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I wish mine came with a better user.
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Chief, which saw have you got? I bet some here can fix that for you ;D
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Vibration free would be good, that would make it silent as well, then I could use it in one of the spare bedrooms over winter. after all, the car has a drive train, engine, prop shaft, gear box, and back axle, and that does not vibrate. everything is mounted on rubber blocks, perhaps that is what is missing. iggy.
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Torsten I have a 788. I actually dont use the scrollsaw a lot. Most of my projects are just tablesaw, miter saw, and router table.
One thing everyone always complains about on the 788 is the arm not staying up when raised. There is a bolt you can tighten about 1/4 turn and the arm will stay where you put it. Now some people say that it is bad for the saw. Well the bolt that I tightened only supprots the upper arm and does not affect the operating mechanism of the saw. It has caused no problems with my saw. Yes I am a top feeder.
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Two things I think are "must haves"...
1. The upper arm has to stay up by itself. I have a 788 with an easy lift system.
2. A foot pedal. It gives you so much better control and keeps your on/off switch from wearing out. I have my on/off switch covered in tape to keep out sawdust.
Barry