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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: BigPete on January 08, 2012, 06:59:33 am
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What is the best way to get rid of fuzzies ? i have been using spiral blades and they leave a lot of fuzzies on the back ,can anyone tell me the best way get rid of them as i dont want to use any power sanders as there are some delicate pieces.....Pete
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I use pieces of sandpaper and needle files. Every now and then you can use a dremel type tool with the little sanding cylinders. Just place a finger on the delicate areas you're sanding near.
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I use the sandpaper installed in the scrollsaw - cut a piece 5" long by 1/2" wide and fold it in half and it should work in your saw . Remember to kept the tension and speed at the lowest setting ..works great for me .......MB
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I use the sandpaper installed in the scrollsaw - cut a piece 5" long by 1/2" wide and fold it in half and it should work in your saw . Remember to kept the tension and speed at the lowest setting ..works great for me .......MB
What a cool idea! I love this place. I'm always learning new things from you guys.
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I recently started torching the back side to get rid of fuzzies. I started with a cigarette lighter and practiced on bottom piece of a stack that I didn't really care about. The method works pretty well. If you get a chance try it.
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I use a pencil torch. Lightly go over all fuzzies then lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Works like a charm.
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I use a sanding mop. Just support the piece with your hand on the back.
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Im with the burners, Ive got a world war 2 flame thrower put the piece in the garden and let rip....LOL. I have a tiny butane soldering gun and it works great.......Paul
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Would wrapping it in tape help with this? That is what I have done then little sanding just to touch up.
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Would wrapping it in tape help with this? That is what I have done then little sanding just to touch up.
Tape helps a bit. The best help is a good blade. I use FD reverse blades. The reverse teeth on the bottom of the blade cuts down a lot on the fuzzies. The tape helps lubricate the blades and extended the blade life more than anything..
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;D Learnt something new here again today. Using the scroll saw to sand. I must try that.
David
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I had heard about using scroll saw to sand, but till I got my EX16 I couldn't grip the sandpaper in the clamps. now I'm ready to give it a try.
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Once again many thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions i will try all and see what works best for me ;)
Paul , just love your method , no messing :D
..........Pete
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Stack Cut!
The bottom one becomes a 'throw away' unless it comes out well but I sand it with 220 grit on my Random Orbital Sander as I go along....keeps 'fuzzies' to a minimum.
SHARP blades lessen the 'fuzzies'!
~~~GB~~~
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One thing I've tried recently and works really well is a sanding buff, mounted in my Dremel. I admit it isn't the most economic means, they seem to wear fairly quickly, but they work really well, easier & faster than cleaning pieces by hand with files, emery boards, sandpaper, etc. Using a low speed on the Dremel and a light touch, even fairly delicate fretwork can be cleaned up with these. If they were a little cheaper or lasted longer, they would be the greatest thing since sliced bread. :D
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There is no question, spiral blades produce a lot more fuzzies. I'm with Judy, I use my sanding mop (220 grit) and support the piece with my hand. Sharp reverse blades help, as do stack cutting (which you probably already do with fragile fretwork).
I have never used a torch. I don't like open flame around all the wood dust in the shop. Plus I would probably set my work piece on fire and bust it all to pieces putting it out.
The very best way for me is gluing 220 sandpaper onto different shaped popsicle sticks. Steve's idea. It can be a bit tedious, but it is the most effective with the least chance of breaking the fragile piece you just spent so much time making.
Barry
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I know it takes extra time, but try sanding after a predetermined amount of cuts for a single project especially if it is delicate. Trying to support fine pieces can be tiresome if your entire project could crumble from a slight touch.
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I use thin wood like door skins or poster board for the top and bottom layer on my stacked (which is most of them) Plywood and they are held together with tooth picks in the cut-out areas. When I am finished I throw the top with the pattern and the bottom with the fizzies away. Simple and neat.