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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: zgrimsley on December 28, 2011, 12:59:14 pm
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How do yall put your patterns on wood? I cover it all with blue painters tape and then use glue to glue the pattern to the tape. Is there a better way?
Thanks
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i use painters rape as will but i have the green tape not the blue i don't know ir there's a difference in them besides the color. i bought self stick mailing labels at staples or any good office supply store. print my patterns on them stick them on and good to go.
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I really like the painters tape, but I have also used masking tape or packing tape also. What I use sort of depends on what I have on hand and how long the tape is going to sit on the wood. When I make my jewelry pieces they are small with relatively few cuts, fairly stable and will go through lots of sanding, the tape is on the wood for no more then a couple of hours (depending on how many pieces I am making in a batch) so regular masking or packing tape is ok (and cheaper then painters tape). When doing fretwork portraits they are larger, take longer, are more fragile and generally won't be sanded any more then I have to, I use painters tape. The painters tape comes off cleaner when left on longer (even weeks) and is gentler to remove (no broken bits when taking the tape off.
I use glue sticks (think elementary school crafts) to put my patterns on. Many people use spray glue which works really well but needs a well ventilated space. I live in Minnesota and my well ventilated space is freezing most of the time and I don't like going outside in that. I also find that glue sticks work really well for small patterns like the ones I use for my jewelry pieces. I sometimes go over the pattern with a layer of packing tape. It holds down the edges of the pattern and lets me start cutting before all the glue drys.
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I cover the face of my wood blank with painters tape. Then spray the back of my pattern with spray adhesive. Wait thirty seconds for the adhesive to tack up, then place that on top if the tape. Then I cover it with clear packing tape. If I am using painters tape on birch ply I give the wood a light coat of shellac before application this prevents the wood grain from pulling up when I remove the tape and pattern..
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I use carbon paper and trace the pattern onto the wood
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I have used A4 printer friendly labels, (basically A4 sticky backed paper) to good effect in conjunction with covering with cellotape, ie packageing tape. Coming from a Pyrography angle I am used to designing on paper then either transfering to wood via carbon [paper or designing striaght to wood, so this way suits me. On comlex celtic designs, which I enjoy I would use those labels, probaly mixing pyro and scrollwork. On less some patterns, say portraits then I can print them after designing in an application.
I may also use other methods depending on what I am trying to achieve. basically I would try several different ways and tailor them to suit what works best for you. There's more than one way to skin a cat as the saying goes. mmmm not that I have mind. :p
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Forgot to add. I use white spirits to take the paper off after cutting and then another wipe with spirits to clear any residue.
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I tried packing tape and gluing the pattern to the packing tape but prefer using the blue painters tape as I find it easier to remove than the packing tape.
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Packing tape is good on hard wood as beech e.g. It lubricates more.
For other wood I use painters tape. And printed labels or the spray adhesive.
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I use "full sheet" labels from onlinelabels.com (http://onlinelabels.com) (stock #OL175WX) and have beev VERY happy with the results.
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I use "full sheet" labels from onlinelabels.com (http://onlinelabels.com) (stock #OL175WX) and have beev VERY happy with the results.
With shipping, these work out to about 15 cents a piece! That's not bad at all. Other places want almost a dollar a sheet. Might have to change tactics now!
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I use the blue painters tape like you do, I tried the clear packing tape at first but found it a bit harder to remove than the blue tape so blue tape for me.
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I use "full sheet" labels from onlinelabels.com (http://onlinelabels.com) (stock #OL175WX) and have beev VERY happy with the results.
With shipping, these work out to about 15 cents a piece! That's not bad at all. Other places want almost a dollar a sheet. Might have to change tactics now!
I use these (from Amazon UK), maybe worthwhile checking Amazon US see what they are with shipping too and compare prices.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sheets-adhesive-210x297mm-compatible-Printers/dp/B003ID7GQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325167445&sr=8-1 Laser and Inkjet printer friendly.
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i use the glue sticks from walmart works for me
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but skip, the glue stick does leave no good visible traces. How do you know where to cut? ;D
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daliclimbs..... tell me more about the shellac. Spray? brush on? water or oil based? brand?
Nosey old lady ain't I?? but thanks in advance for the info.
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I use spray adhesive and stick the pattern directly to the wood. I use clear packing tape over the pattern. It lubricates the blade and makes for a cleaner cut. After removing the tape, which gets rid of most of the pattern, I clean up the remainder of the pattern and adhesive residue with mineral spirits.
I have never used painters tape, but it seems to be quite popular. I think we are all creatures of habit and tend to do things the way we were taught when we first began scrolling.
If you ask ten scrollers their opinion you will get at least eleven differnt answers :)
Barry
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I have always just used the spray Adhesive only , if you put enough on the pattern it wont come off. I have found that if you spray like a day ahead of time it's better . This way when you drill the sawdust will not lift the pattern up if it's dry . Some have said if you put too much it's hard to get off - well I use a heat gun anyway - and use an automotive Laqure thinner to remove the glue on the top piece ....................MB
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I only ever use spray glue too, I find it's dry enough to drill without lifting the pattern after about 5 mins, when I remove the pattern I wipe it with celulose thinners and it just falls off and the glue wipes off with the same cloth and thinners.
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This is what I use, not because I am cheap (I am?), but because it works good for me.
I buy cheap tan masking tape. Whenever it is on sale I get a bunch. I cover the top of the project. If it is stacked I go all around the project. Toothpicks hold it together. I then spray the pattern very heavy and put it on the taped up wood now. I don't worry about the wood grain because I know where it is before I cover it. Then drill and cut. The first whiff of hot or smoke I put clear packing tape over the pattern. I very, very seldom have a pattern come off the project. If I do I slap down a piece of scotch tape or hold the pattern down with a tapered popsicle stick. After cutting I soak it in MS for a minute and never have problems getting it off after that.