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General Category => Tutorials, Techniques and Tips => Topic started by: Wingnut on October 02, 2011, 11:54:20 pm
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I was wondering if anybody has come up with a way to keep the very small blades from being bent on the end? When I clamp the small blades, it seems that after about 4-6 clampings I have to stop and straighten the end of the blade out so it will fit through the small entry holes in my project. On my old saw it had a very small slot in the guide that held the blade straight while in the clamp. My DW788 doesn't have that kind of guide. I'm gonna try and come up with something that keeps the blade straight as it gets clamped. I can't be the only one that has this problem can I? ???
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No wingnut, your not the only one. Every one is going to tell you it has to do with the set screw opposite the thumb screw. I have adjusted it every which way with no improvement. It is one of the problems with the DW788. The best solution is to find the right torque of which to tighten the thumb screw. It has to be tight enough to hold the blade in the clamp without slipping, but not so tight that it bends the blade.
I have found that for the most part Flying Dutchman blades bend less, but unfortunately the FD 2/0 blades don't work for me, so I use Olsen 2/0R blades which tend to bend easier.
To help prevent the blades from slipping in the clamp, remove the oil on the ends of the blade. Some people use mineral spirits, I use a folded piece of 220 grit sand paper.
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If the set screw opposite of the thumb screw is set correctly and the blade still bends after a few times of clamping, you are tightening the thumb screw WAY too tight. The thumb screw is pushing into the blade and causing a dent in the blade and kind of "mooching" the steel and causing it to spread out and deform. Thus, it tends to bend toward the thumb screw side. Al tho the blades are hardened there is still different alloys of steel for different makes of blades.
Just my two cents worth.
Rog
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Well I'll be.... You guys have all confirmed my experiment lately is gonna work. Yea! I have had horrible problems with FD blades breaking at the top right on that lil crimp. Long story short I really feel I have been cranking the thumb screw knob just a lil to hard. Used the FD blades yesterday for part of a jewelery box with around 50 inside cuts and YeePeeYea.... Finished cutting it and....NO BLADE BREAKAGE.... So I will agree with the above about the bending of the top of the blade being due to the tightening. Danny :+}
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when your blade bends on the bottom end, try cutting it off 1/4" or so. I do this with blades in order to use some of the unused teeth above the wood. I cut off 3/8" because that is the stroke of my saw.
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One other possibility is that the 'tip' on the clamping side is not turning freely. Take out the Thumb screw, wash it in some alcohol and very carefully lubricate that 'tip' inside the thumb screw so it turns freely.
I use a 'needle oiler' made for lubricating clocks and other tiny places.
If you have a "Feed Store" in your area go there and get a syringe used for injecting meds into animals. Use the syringe with alcohol to get it into the space behind the 'tip' and clean it out. Be Careful...those syringes are VERY sharp!
~~~GB~~~
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Hi guys and gals,
I've got all my holiday gifts done finally. I know, I know I'm a little late on some, but hey, I got em done and sent.
Anyway, I came up with a way to stop most of the bending before I started on all the presents, but didn't have time to stop and take my saw back apart and show you what I came up with. I drilled through the bottom clamp, filed the hole square, inserted a flat piece of Stainless through the hole and it applies the pressure needed to hold the blade when I turn the thumb screw. Works great, tighten the screw as much as you want, it won't bend the end.
I'll try to get it apart and show you how it is done this week.
Wingnut
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Looking forward to it Wingnut!
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Can't wait to see some pics of what you have done. :)
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when I see the pics I might modify mine too
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Sounds like a great idea. Look foreward to seeing it!
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I took my saw apart and these are the pics of the Bottom holder modifications I've done. 1th pic, shows drilled hole, squared w/jewelers files, I didn't go with too big of a hole because I didn't want to weaken the part. And the S S plate (I used a SS hose clamp) filed to fit the hole. I didn't measure to too great a degree. I just cut it big and then started filing it to fit the hole. After it fit good I bent it over so it couldn't fall out when the blade isn't clamped. 2th pic shows top view and the bend I put in the plate so it was easier to put blade in place for tightening. It works pretty good, but almost always have to move the blade to the side that it's spoasda go in. In this case to the left of the plate. 3th pic shows the end (tab) of the plate sticking through the holder and bent over. It does move up and down so when you tighten the blade you have to remember to hold UP on it so it won't bend the blade. I put quite a lot of pressure on my blades with the tightener. Nothing's worse than a blade slipping out of the clamp. Oh yah, my wife says I should tell you about my numbering system, it seems 2th nature to me since I've been doing it for so long. Oneth (1th), Twoth (2th), Threeth (3th), Fouth (4th), Fiveth (5th), Sixth (6th), Seventh (7th), Eighth (8th), Nineth (9th), Tenth (10th). I ain't figured the next ten numbers out yet, but when I do I'll let you know. I think they'll go something like this: Oneteenth (1teenth), Twoteenth (2teenth), that would be the most logical way.
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I use a 788 SS and when I go to a new FD blade I wipe the ends with a dry paper towel ,you will see a black mark left on the towel. this leaves the blade ends cleaner and allows me to use less torch when i tighten the clamps. ;)
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One other possibility is that the 'tip' on the clamping side is not turning freely. Take out the Thumb screw, wash it in some alcohol and very carefully lubricate that 'tip' inside the thumb screw so it turns freely.
I use a 'needle oiler' made for lubricating clocks and other tiny places.
If you have a "Feed Store" in your area go there and get a syringe used for injecting meds into animals. Use the syringe with alcohol to get it into the space behind the 'tip' and clean it out. Be Careful...those syringes are VERY sharp!
~~~GB~~~
Check with your pharmacy, or veterinarian if the feed store doesn't have them, they are handy for a number of applications and are available in many sizes from a couple of cc's on up and the needle sizes too, yep they are sharp who would want to get a shot (or jab as our friends across the pond call it,) with a dull needle?
OUCH
I think I've even seen them in hobby shops with blunt needles for oiling and such.
You could use the disposable ones for special glueing jobs where it would be difficult to put the glue any other way. Then just throw it away because the glue will probably cure making it useless. They are not expensive.
Gabby