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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: GrayBeard on August 01, 2011, 10:22:05 am
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Just to provide a review for all the members and especially the newbies...
There are many ways to treat the tables of scroll saws to keep them "slick" and rust free.
Many of us use Johnson's Paste wax but there are other methods.
What do YOU do to keep your table top conditioned?
~~~GrayBeard~~~
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Hey GB, If my table needs cleaning, I will spray some WD40 on it and sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Then spritz on some mineral spirits to clean off the oil. Then when dry, I apply some paste wax. Wait about five minutes, then buff it to a shine. I use Minwax Finishing wax because that is what I have on hand. But you can use what ever you have on hand as long as it does not contain silicone.
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I do the same, Dan, with the exception that I clean off the mineral spirits with alcohol to completely eliminate and trace of the oils.
~~~GB~~~
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I have a product called "Top Cote" It was a gift or I would be using your method still, I did it your way for many years.
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I polish my EX-30 with automotive paste wax. Slick and pretty as Gabby's bald head. The only issue is because the table is so slick is keeping a good grip while scrolling.
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I polish my EX-30 with automotive paste wax. Slick and pretty as Gabby's bald head. The only issue is because the table is so slick is keeping a good grip while scrolling.
Wade, You should not use automotive paste wax as it usually contains silicone. Silicone can interfere with stains and finishes.
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well, I guess I better start looking for a differnt type of wax. I have been using car wax. That johnson wax, is that indoor or outdoor type wax?
gene
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It is marketed as a floor wax. You should be able to find it at the grocery store or places like WalMart or Target.
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Clean with whatever method is necessary, then treat with Boeshield T-9 and buff. T-9 is a bit pricey but a little goes a long way and for me it lasts a lot longer than wax. I use it on all my tool tabletops.
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I'm a tight wad and use what I have available. I used silicone spray lube and polished it dry with paper towels. I can hardly keep the wood from sliding off my tilted table. I have no problems with getting any on the wood as I wrap the whole thing in tape anyway for blade lubrication!
Just shows to go ya there is more than one way to skin a cat!
;D
Gabby
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*pfff* I just leave some fine dust on there - works like a charm ;D
But sometimes I also use some hard beewax to get it shiny: Clou hard antik wax (http://www.clou.de/bau-heimwerker/produkte/produktansicht//antik-wachs-fest/)
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I'm a tight wad and use what I have available. I used silicone spray lube and polished it dry with paper towels. I can hardly keep the wood from sliding off my tilted table. I have no problems with getting any on the wood as I wrap the whole thing in tape anyway for blade lubrication!
Just shows to go ya there is more than one way to skin a cat!
;D
Gabby
Sooner or later, that silicone is going to bite you!
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I agree with Dan! on the very project you want to be 'perfect' you will go to stain and "POOF" go the blotchies!
~~~GB~~~
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Bees Wax in the form of paste.
***Merlin***
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When it does I'll whine, cry, blow snot, and snivel like crazy just so y'all can tell me
"i told you so"! ;D
Just a stubborn old coot! LOL
Gabby
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I have had my Heigner for ten years and I haven't cleaned the table off once. I am always scrolling so it will never get rusty.lol Bobby
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Hey There,
I use Mothers brand pure Carnuba auto wax. Works like a charm and no silicone.
Bob
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I just throw it away , cut a new one and install it.
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I guess I'm like scrollrific, I sand both my table saw and scrollsaw occasionally with whatever sandpaper is around, wipe it off with as clean a rag as I can find and go back to work
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Different brand saw tables are made of different materials. Cast iron tables require more tlc than cast aluminum tables. My saw has a cast aluminum table and requires very little maintenance, I initially sanded and waxed it, since then all I have to do is wipe it with a rag once in a while.