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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: marmoh on January 01, 2011, 12:57:41 pm
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I had a 1/2" piece of Red Oak that I was going to make a shelf with. Since it was to big to cut down in portions with my band saw ( 9" clearance .. needed 10" ) I was going to cut it with the scrollsaw. Put in a FD-SR #5 turned on the machine and it all went to heck !!! The blade decided it was going where it wanted to go and then I broke the blade. Figure this piece of wood will not look good in the fireplace and I would really like to make the shelf. Am calling out for HELP to let me know what to do. I have been using BB and scrape wood and have had no problems. I have a Delta 16" 40-540.
Thanking you in advance.....Marion
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Hey Marion, I take it you do not have a table saw or a circular saw? How about a hand saw?
Sounds like you did not have enough tension on the blade. Try a larger blade like a
#7 or #9. Apply enough tension so you have a high ping when you pluck the blade like a guitar string. I would set the speed at mid way, and slow down your feed rate.
Hope you can salvage your board!
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Have a miter saw handy could use that to cut it with. Problem would still be there when I go to cut out the pattern. I am just starting so do not have any blade larger than a #5. I had a ping to the blade and did set the speed a little higher than I normally use. I knew it would be different working on hardwood just didn't know it would be so different. Will order some larger blades and try it later I guess. Thanks for the feedback.
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I really don't like oak. I find it really hard to cut. Most of the scraps that I can get from school are oak, I burn most of them, I would rather buy wood then cut oak.
I usually use a number 7 blade, turn the saw speed up a bit and my speed down a bit. Also don't forget to put packing tape over the pattern, it will help.
Good Luck!
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Marion,
What is the size of the piece of oak?
Karl
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It's 5" x 24" x 1/2" ..... I needed a piece 10" long to put my pattern on. I used the miter saw and now have the size I need but it seems to me I will have the same problem cutting on a small piece. I will get some bigger blades and try that. mrsn I think I am with you on not going to like oak. The BB seems to be working for me. Just hate I spent the money on the oak. I guess with this hobby you live and learn ??? I also have a 1/4" piece which may take the #5 blade (???) so may try something on that.
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I cut on oak and walnut all the time, both 1/4 and 1/2 inch. I use a #3 at a slow speed, just so I can control the sharp turns.
Don't feed too fast, that could be a problem.
Good luck,
Bill
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I am cutting out the bracket as it is the smallest piece. I left in the #5 and I am able to work on it. I think the first thing I was trying to do was cut too large of a piece and didn't have enough control on it ??? It is still so different than cutting on BB and I am going to have my lesson on patience before this is over with. If the stars are aligned right and I get this done I will post a picture. If not the weather is going to cool down again so the fireplace may see it !!! Thanks to all for your help. I knew I joined this forum for a reason.
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Cutting solid wood is a bit different than cutting ply becaus ethe grain has a mind of its own. On solid wood the grain can cause the blade to wander, and on ply the grains are perpindicular to each other on the different layers. Never give up just keep practicing.
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Marion, As has been stated before, practice, practice, practice. You will find that in some hardwoods such as oak the blade will cut differently between the softer and harder spots in the grain. Also the wood will be harder to cut when ripping (cutting with the grain), then cross cutting (cutting across the grain).
When trying something new, in your case oak, start with something small and easy, and practice, practice, practice!!
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Slow down YOUR speed. Don't force it, let the blade do the cutting, you just guide it to where you want it to go.
I cut red oak all the time using every saw that I own including the scroll saw. I usually cut 3/4" red oak (or other hard woods) for bowls and vases etc. I much prefer hard woods over plywood for most things except real fine fret work. Solid wood of any kind does not like fine work as it usually breaks along the grain.
Rog
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I'm in agreement with the most , that softer woods are easier to work with . But you probably need to learn to cut the harder Oaks and Walnuts - for they do make some great looking projects . I use a lot of hard woods and just remember to slow your speed down and I use a lot of 3-2-and 1 Reverse blades on making my Christmas Ornaments made out of Walnut which have a lot of small turns. You are using a good blade - don't give up -try different things . And get back with us if you still have any problems - maybe even Steve Good has soom ideas for you ........
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I cut a lot of red oak 1/2 to 3/4" using a FD 5UR. I've found it important to put a layer of packaging or blue masking tape on it first to help lubricate the blade, and to slow the saw down, relax. Hardest part for me is when the blade gets a mind of it's own and tries to follow the grain. I really like the look of oak when it's finished, so its worth the effort to me. My first projects were using an old oak shelf, 12" wide and 6' long. Had varnish on it, but I sanded that off with a belt sander. I'm not sure just which type of oak it is, but its even harder than the red oak. Still used the #5 and it works fine.
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I have just cut some 12mm Jarra and that is very hard I used a #02 blade and it cut fine, you must be pushing the wood into the saw to hard try letting the saw do the work
Jimbo
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If you ask 10 people you will get 10 different answers. This is what I do. If the piece is 1/2" or thicker and is a hard wood I use a #7 blade .It works for me but like I said everyone is different so try it. Some wrap the wood with packing tape to lubercate the blade to keep it cool.Try it on a scrap piece first. Good luck. Bobby