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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Marcellarius on December 03, 2010, 08:31:09 am
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I need some tips and tricks for finishing fretwork.
After oiling the wood I would like to put a clear coat lacker over the project.
what is the best way to do this?
I have "two problems", both related to each other.
First how do you lacker all the small insides, (with a brush?)
second how do you lacker the front/back without getting thick layers on all the edges?
Marcel
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Hi Marcel, I find a Air Brush does a great job you can control the amount of finish you apply plus its only a thin coat so it will dry very quick......Paul ;D
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hi paul,
I find the waterbased acrylic paints/lacker to make a "dry tip" very quickly.
but I can try this.
thanks for the quick reply!
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Marcel, I use a lacquer that comes in a spray can. It dries very fast, so use light coats. With the spray, it is easy to get into the small cutouts. If I get dust nibs on the surface, I use a piece of brown paper bag as I would use sandpaper to remove them. It also polishes the finish.
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I use Minwax Helmsman spar urethane in a spray can. It has a fine mist and dries quickly. I also use a brown paper sack to smooth it out.
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with a brown paper bag / sack you mean the one that they sell fruits in?
(http://www.webstaurantstore.com/52-lb-1-8-brown-paper-barrel-sack-500-bundle/52-lb-1-8-brown-paper-barrel-sack-500-bundle.jpg)
do you "buff" the surface with it?
that's a great tip thanks!
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That's it! I cut a square about the size of a sheet of sandpaper. fold into quarters, then sand. It sand off dust nibs, and evens out the Finish.
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Marcel, here in Southern California when you shop at the grocery store you have a choice of either paper or plastic bags. I always choose paper so I always have a supply!
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Dan, here in holland in most big supermarkets we only have plastic bags..... :'(
but I will find some.
I just sprayed my project with my airbrush. it was hanging under the ventilation
it's hard to see with clear lacker how much is on it so on some places it's to much..... :(
there are some thick drups......
so I've got a new thing to learn.
I'm also not sure if I have all the little cutouts filled good, but it looks nice.
will remove the thick spots tomorrow.
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I use spray can lacquer to. Easy to control and dries fast. 8)
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i had never heard of using brown paper sack. someone mentioned it a couple of months ago.
i forget who. thanks very much whoever it was, also thanks for talking about not sanding between coats. best thing i have ever found out about finishing. thanks again
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If you are in an area that does not offer paper or plastic, buy the little lunch sacks. Also, brown paper is usually available in the paint department in rolls, it is a little courser than the bags but also works well.
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Termite,
Could you explain further about not sanding between coats of finish. I was told long ago that you should sand between coats or you would accentuate any flaws in the first coat. Thanks
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the person that put the first post in knowes more about this than me. they said if you were using lacquer,you do need to sand between coats. the second coat would bond with the first one & so on
i think they said 3 coats is pretty good. when finished spraying,rub down with brown paper sack. i
hope i didnt get this wrong
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Lacquer will dissolve the top layer of the previous coat, so if you have small flaws in the finish, the next coat may level it out. If it is a large drip, then use 0000 steel wool to clean up the dry drip, then re coat. If you have dust nibs between coats use the brown paper bag like sandpaper to smooth out the lacquer. Dust it off than re coat. After the final coat is dry, use the brown paper bag to smooth out and polish the lacquer. I don't know if this works with other finishes as I only use lacquer as my topcoats.
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Thanks Termite and Dgman.
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on reply #14 i should have said you do not need to sand between coats. sorry
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the original post about finishing was done by dgman Sept. 16--easy finish. he knows more about
this than me. im just a beginner. it does work. i like the results
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Ditto on the spray lacquer. I used to use steel wool to smooth the piece before my last coat, but I find the brown paper bag does much better and it is definately cleaner.
Barry
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If you are in an area that does not offer paper or plastic, buy the little lunch sacks. Also, brown paper is usually available in the paint department in rolls, it is a little courser than the bags but also works well.
lunch sacks are also plastic.......
I will look in the paint department, but in the big DIY shops they sell plastic foil to.
My wife knows a store a couple of villiges away where the have paper bags at the vegetables corner, so I will go there.
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You people have taught me a thing or two. Thanks....:+}
I have been using Krylon Gloss Spray (Walmart) and I have found it to be very good and the price is only $2.50 per can. Dries in 20 mins. I have always used 320 grit sand paper to sand inbetween coats. Oh yea the Krylon says no sanding between coats, but thats not so. Danny :+}
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Thanks everyone for the tips.
they are very useful
I made some projects, one I used a brush the first time and the second and third time I sprayed lacker.
the I did the next project only with my airbrush.
I found it hard to reach every spot on the inside of the cutouts.
I can paint it well, but then the area around it will be sprayed to thick.
Tried four/five thin layers, but didn't hit everything :(
so I still suffer with finishing the small cut outs on fretwork.
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Some brush on or dip fretwork in Danish Oil, lemon oil, or a 50-50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. This will get into the frets. Excess is blown or wiped off, then allowed to dry. Then spray with laquer, etc.
Pat B