Scrollsaw Workshop Community -Please register to enable posting.
General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: mikeh53 on November 29, 2010, 08:39:14 am
-
Hi Group
Last month I purchased a grose of Olson 2.0 off eBay... (Cheep!) And like the way they cut. Have been doing lots of ornaments, puzzles, Etc... But... in working on some stand up puzzles for my grand kids... I find that I am having a hard time assembling after my wife puts a coat of paint on them... so... what would you folk recommend as a good blade to move up to... with a little wider curfe to make room for the acrylic paint a 5? maybe...? (I still want to be able to do fine work...)
-
For stand up puzzles, I use either a #5 or #7 reverse tooth blade, both Flying Dutchman and Olson. The problem is painting between the pieces. If you leave them plain, they will slide better. If it is one of those puzzles that you just feel compelled to paint between the pieces, use some wax to help them slide better. I use Howards Feed N Wax. It is available in lots of places like Home Depot, Lowes, True Value and a lot of grocery store cleaning isles where the furniture polish is.
-
Julie has given you good advice. A #5 or #7 are what I use.
-
I'll third that #5 or#7. Don't paint in between if you can help it. Too much added work.
-
I ordered the Special Puzzle blades from FD Mike. Not sure what the difference is.
-
The special puzzle blade is designed to be used for jigsaw puzzles, typically 1/4" or less in thickness. What is being discussed here are standup puzzles typically 3/4' thick or more. The puzzle blades will not handle that thickness.
Hope that helps clarify it for you.
-
Those two blades seem to work the best the #5 and #7.
-
I do use the FD puzzle blades for the smaller size puzzles and they work quite well. I use #3 for my thicker puzzles as I like the tighter fit and don't paint cuts.