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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Shogun on January 07, 2014, 10:38:45 am
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Hi everyone, a few days ago the motor on my table saw went out so I'm in the market for a new on. I was looking at the craftsman 21807 http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10inch-table-saw-with-laser-trac-reg-21807/p-00921807000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1# because it is within my budget range but it has gotten some really crappy reviews concerning cutting accuracy. I would really appreciate any advice or recommendations any of you have an a good table saw in around the $300-$400.00 price range.
Thank you.
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After reading the reviews it seems for be a fairly good saw for what you would want. I had a Craftsman saw for over 25 years and recently gave it to a neighbor and he is still using it. I see if you join the *sears club* they will give you a hundred dollars off on the price..................not a bad deal, plus you get free shipping. I think I would give this saw a second look.
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Shogun,
I would say that BRAND has nothing to do with ACCURACY.
I'm not a Craftsman fan by any means but, for the price range I wouldn't say it is a bad saw.
Accuracy on ANY saw has to do with the blade being parallel to the miter slots, the fence being parallel to the blade and miter slots and the miter gauge being a true 90 degrees to all three. In other words, it is all a matter of setting the saw up correctly to get accuracy on any saw.
I have a more expensive table saw (Jet) but, if it wasn't set up correctly I wouldn't have good accuracy either. The most important things to look for are horse power, ease of use (as far as blade tilt, raising the blade, sizeof the saw etc.) and RPM of the motor and/or blade.
A good set up and a sharp blade will make or break any saw of any brand.
Just my two cents worth.
Rog.
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I 100% agree with R.R. A Construction Saw really is the way to go (if you can afford one)
but most Name Brand Saws with the Proper set up and for sure the RIGHT BLADE will cut
Great and True. Danny :+}
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I bought this one 2 years ago and have been ultimately happy with it ever since!
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GTS1031-10-Inch-Portable-Jobsite/dp/B004O7FX20/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1389117760&sr=8-4&keywords=table+saw%2C+bosch (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GTS1031-10-Inch-Portable-Jobsite/dp/B004O7FX20/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1389117760&sr=8-4&keywords=table+saw%2C+bosch)
IN the price range, good reviews and I LOVE IT!
Just take the time to accurately set it up and get yourself a really good blade.
~~~GB~~~
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I had the craftsman contractor saw for a few years which I got at a good price (free). I am not sure how old it was but think built in the late 80's. As they said it was fine as long as you used the right blade and set up It was good. It did get to the point I was spending more time setting it up than sawing. I think it was fine just I am not a engineer or mechanical wizard and I did not really have the room when I got a band saw so gave it to a youngman
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The Craftsman you showed is way underpowered at 15 amps, basically 1 hp. If all you're going to be cutting is 3/4" thick or less, 1 hp is fine, but if you're going to be cutting thicker than 3/4" especially hardwoods, your going to need at least 3 hp. For 3-4 hundred bucks you could probably get a pretty good saw on Craigslist, it might take a lil patience though to find one. As for straight cuts, ditto to what everyone else said, and build yourself a nice crosscut sled.
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The tablesaw is the heart of any wood shop. If you look on Craigslist you can find excellent saws in your price range. I bought a Delta Unisaw for $350 a few years ago. Right now I am aware of a guy in my neighborhood with 3 Jet tablesaws for sale at great prices. The accuracy and stability of a really good saw will spoil you. Like others have said, setup is critical but not difficult. On a good saw the setup doesn't have to be repeated often either.
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm going to take another look at that saw. I'm thinking now, that maybe the bad reviews where due to improper set up. I'm also going to look at some 3hp saws like tripleb suggested since I cut a lot of 2x4's and the like.
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Remember to check the voltage and current requirements for a 3 HP saw if you want one. It will need 240V or a heavy current capacity (maybe 30 amps at 120V). Does your shop have that circuitry?
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I bought a old sears table saw of craigslist think it was made in the 70's has the motor on the back which they say runs more quiet than a direct drive 10 inch, I paid 55 bucks for it, its a heavy sucker though and I love it, the guy didn't take care of it, I had to clean it up and lube some points on it, cleaned up the table and use the fire out of it.
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The Craftsman you showed is way underpowered at 15 amps, basically 1 hp. If all you're going to be cutting is 3/4" thick or less, 1 hp is fine, but if you're going to be cutting thicker than 3/4" especially hardwoods, your going to need at least 3 hp. For 3-4 hundred bucks you could probably get a pretty good saw on Craigslist, it might take a lil patience though to find one. As for straight cuts, ditto to what everyone else said, and build yourself a nice crosscut sled.
15 amps coverts to just over 1.5HP at 65% efficiency. Should be good for medium duty woodworking.
http://www.onlineconversion.com/motor_horsepower.htm
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EIEIO...I will have to look. I know I have room in the box to set that up if not already there. Thanks for the reminder.
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I have a Rigid 3650 saw with a 1 1/2 HP motor and thin kerf blade that cuts 1"- 3" thick, soft and hardwood well. I personally, do not need three HP for what I do. (Mostly ripping and re-sawing) My fence works well and that is important in a table saw.