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General Category => Pattern Requests. => Topic started by: gilljc on October 07, 2013, 05:20:02 pm
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Hi
This is my first visit here, was referred here by a member on ukworkshop
have recently been asked to make something depicting a Morgan 4-4 (1994 2-seater) and a Hillman imp . I am absolutely useless with computers and have no hope of doing my own :-[
I wonder whether anyone has or could design a scroll saw pattern for either or both of these cars? The morgan owner requested a toy (does not need to be scale model, just identifiable) or lid for document box, while the Hillman imp did not specify, just 'something with a Hillman imp'. Could be for fretwork, segmentation or double bevel inlay?
Would be grateful for any help offered, and I am more than happy to pay for any patterns that I could use.
Fingers crossed
Gill
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Here's an Imp for Fretwork. Looking at the Morgan - it should make a nice toy car.
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I found this on the Morgan 4/4. If rendered into a set of maybe 3 compound cuts, would that be of interest?
(http://autoautomobiles.narod.ru/autoautomobiles/morgan/morgan-4-4.gif)
located at http://autoautomobiles.narod.ru/autoautomobiles/morgan/morgan-4-4.gif (http://autoautomobiles.narod.ru/autoautomobiles/morgan/morgan-4-4.gif)
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From this image:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3149/2536038504_0448b74efa_m.jpg)
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Wow! thanks for that, will have a go at the two patterns and see what I can make of them. Only been scrolling in my spare time over the last couple of years, self taught from internet, so lots of very basic knowledge probably missing.
Are you able to make a pattern for the compound cuts, that would be a very exciting project :) have tried my hand at a couple of compound cut projects in the past, soon discovered that the wood has to be square :D
I have a hegner 1 that I bought off e-bay last year, best buy I ever made
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EIEIO: Excellent patterns, thanks for your help
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I'll take a shot at the compound cuts. I want to try cutting one to make sure I didn't forget something, but I'll post what I come up with. The headlights might require a little carving, or maybe just a little paint to highlight them and the taillights.
I'm thinking I'd cut a 1/8" slot for a piece of Lexan for the windscreen. Any problem with that? (If this is for a very small child then the glued-in windscreen might not be a good idea).
I think it will scale to about 8" long with 1.5" wheels.
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Thanks again, sounds incredibly challenging, bit scared but looking forward to it.
Fully grown child, might be 2nd or even 3rd childhood ;) have used toymaking plans in past, glued in thin dowel to signify top of windscreen
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Couple of nice patterns there, Ray, especially the Morgan, from my point of view. The Imp looks a bit too challenging for me.
I decided to have a go at the Morgan today but the **** glue stick didn't hold and the complete pattern came off. Grrrrrr.
Martin.
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This is a quick job - about 90 minutes design build time - so the detail is poor, but the overall shape looks about right to me. I hope you can use it as a starting point.
Start with a block 1.5" x 3.0" x 7.5" (I used a cut down 2x4), 1/4" dowel for the axles, and 1.5" hobby lobby wheels (or make your own).
Glue the pattern to the block (red line along the block edge) then drill the axle holes (9/32") and cut a slot for the windscreen with a 1/8" kerf table saw blade (I stuck a piece of 1/8" BB Ply in place for the windscreen).
I used a band saw to cut the side profile (my EX21 can't take the 3" width) but your Hegner might take 3".
Tape it back together then cut the top profile (cutting off the fenders).
Cut the outline of the left side fender (the one with the picture on it) using a scroll saw. I hand-held the shape so the picture side was horizontal facing up.
Us the left fender to mark the shape of the right fender. Cut the right fender like the left fender.
Cut the axles and put on the wheels.
Fit the fenders around the wheels. I used an oscillating drum sander to shape them and clean up the cuts a little. Glue and hold in place with rubber bands until the glue sets.
For trim, you could add something for head and tail lights if you'd like. You can also add a 5th wheel to the trunk lid. You might drill out or paint the interior, or you could cut out the door openings then add the doors back.
One thing is that the front wheels are within the fenders but the rear wheels stick out. You could cut out some space in the body to let the rear wheels tuck in better.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gMMSOr4G9iQ/UlQtBn0XxmI/AAAAAAAABCs/0U1uzoF6EYU/w719-h537-no/IMG_0419.jpg)(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r264ZaWMjXA/UlQtFaLTNGI/AAAAAAAABC8/pzu3TmvdZ98/w719-h537-no/IMG_0421.jpg)
If you make one, please post a photo.
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That's amazing, how do you do that? Will definitely give it a go, once I pick my chin off the floor.
Will keep you posted with progress :)
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Martin, don't know if it helps, was using glue sticks over masking tape, but found 'crafters companion' temporary repositionable adhesive spray. really cheap, about ?5 a can and the best I have used yet, not a wide spray so doesn't stick up the shed, and if you let it tack up, really is like masking tape and peels off nicely and sticks very well, even for delicate fretwork
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NICE JOB RAY!! And quick too!
You did a good job of explaining how you did it too.
That should get a few people thinking in 3D!
I do have a suggestion for the rear wheels sticking out. Use a forstner drill bit about 1/4"- 3/8" larger than the wheels diameter and drill into the side of the body a short distance. Of course you need to make the rear fenders match but, that is no great trick for a real player. ;D :D
Rog
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How do you do it, Ray? I'd want a week to cut that car from your pattern, never mind design and cut the first model in a few hours.
Martin.
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How do you do it, Ray? I'd want a week to cut that car from your pattern, never mind design and cut the first model in a few hours.
Martin.
This was a very simple model just to get started with close to the right scale - the real time is burned up in the details like bumpers, lights, steering wheel, seats, ... that I did not do. But it came out looking like a 3-D hand sketch of a Morgan. I prefer that "sketch" look to heavy detail, but I know a lot of people like the exacting detail and will spent the time to get it. This was just a way to get a starting point. I was lucky to find that drawing on line as a starting point.
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Decided to restart this, this evening. There's an island in the back wheel which I didn't notice until too late. Probably not very noticeable, but it sticks out like a sore thumb to me because I know about it. :)
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Your cutting looks great. I see where the floater was, bit I don't think it takes away from the image. If you kept it, you could glue it back on the backboard, but I would leave it like it is.
Did you try the compound version?
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Did you try the compound version?
No, I've never cut a compound one and never even thought to try to be honest. I probably haven't got anything to cut it from as I think I only have plywood.
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Hey!....Plywood is not all bad! You could be amazed at what you can do with it if you just try.
(http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z299/rapidroger/My%20scroll%20patterns/PlywoodpitcherIMG_0281.jpg) (http://s193.photobucket.com/user/rapidroger/media/My%20scroll%20patterns/PlywoodpitcherIMG_0281.jpg.html)
Rog
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Hi Rog,
I'm not complaining about plywood, it's the only wood I have, most of it from building sites. ;D
Yes, plywood can be very versatile, and it's a great looking vase, but not the type of thing I would want to make, I don't have enough patience. :)
Martin
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Hi
thought I should reply, as I asked for patterns in first place ;) my friend is keen on the compound cut pattern, but I don't think I could cut it on scrollsaw, I have a baby bandsaw, but it is about to go back to Draper to be checked out as the table won't stay steady ( no use for compound cuts)
When I get it back I will be straight in there giving it a go, and will get back to you when I do
Really glad Martin gave the other pattern a go and it looks great!!! :)
thanks again for your help
Gill
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When you get to the compound, take a look at the dimensions - 1.5 wheels, body is 1.5H, 3.0W, 7.5L. So the car has some pretty uniform ratios of the wheel diameter. It should be easy to scale up to whatever size your friend wants.
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Hi, Ray,
Thanks a lot for helping with the request. Excellent proto-type you have shown us!
I would also like to give the compound cut a try but, I must be a bit slow because I don't understand what the second cut is for the body (your pic shows the top view but, no side view)
and I don't understand the second cut on the fenders ( your pic only shows one view).
Can you explain to me what I seem to be missing, please?
If I'm too dense to see somthing that should be easily understood, that isn't your fault!
God Bless! Spirithorse55@hotmail.com
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Spirithorse:
This is a complicated form of compound cut with resulting parts (the fenders) that are not symmetrical. If you have not done compound cuts before, you might start with something like the Christmas Tree Icicle ornaments in the Holiday issue of Woodworking & Crafts to get a feel for them. They are pretty amazing when you unwrap them.
Here's a side view of the prototype:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RzbPzgGq2oQ/UnEX9ejY39I/AAAAAAAABHo/ZipwZV97WBQ/w1044-h399-no/MorganSide.JPG)
Here's a top view (glue was still setting at the time):
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r264ZaWMjXA/UlQtFaLTNGI/AAAAAAAABH0/Wpf173hesAw/w1044-h532-no/IMG_0421.jpg)
A compound cut uses 2 cuts to get a 3-dimensional shape. We are making multiple compound cuts to get (1) the 3D body, (2) the 3D left fender, and (3) the 3D right fender. I started with a blank cut from a piece of pine 2x4, 1.5" x 3" x 7.5".
After drilling for the axles, the 1st cut gives the side view of the body; looking from the top, it still looks like a 3"x7.5" rectangle. My saw (EX-21) is not big enough to cut through the 3 inch dimension so I did that cut on a bandsaw.
2nd cut is the top view of the body and strips off the 2 fenders. The body rought shape is done. But at this point, if we look at the fenders from the side, they will be the same shape as the body side view. So they each need another cut.
3rd cut is to get the side view of the left fender. That makes the 2 cuts to get the compound shape of the left fender. This is tricky because you can't reassemble the full blank to make that cut (because you would wreck the body part). One way to simplify it might be to start with 2 original blanks, make the 1st & 2nd cuts on both, then sacrifice the body of the 2nd blank to help cut the fenders for use on the 1st body. I did not do that and as a result got some rough cutting as seen in the photo.
Forth cut is the side view of right fender.
Since we cut the fenders from the same blank as the body, the fenders should be able to glue right back onto the body. You might test-fit them, then do some shaping with a sander to get them closer to the desired overall shape.
A Morgan enthusiast, or a detailed modeler, may not be satisfied with what I show here - it is not smoothly finished, or include details like seats, headlights, bumpers, etc. It is the way I like toys - looking more like a sketch than a photograph, simple to make and to fix if a happy hooligan rolls it down the steps. But probably not meant to be mounted in a showcase. That detailed finishing takes the bulk of the work, and if it's what you like to do then have at it.
I hope this answers your questions. If not, let me know how else I can help.
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Excellent explanation, Ray and, once again, excellent pattern!
I did not realize that the fenders were cut off the body.
I was picturing one compound cut for the body and then compound cuts for each fender.
I'll snag a copy of your pattern and keep it for a time that I have extra time (if there is such a thing) and when I feel adventurous. I'll definitely let you see how my attempt comes out when I get around to trying it.
Thank you very much for your time and efforts. Really, Truly appreciated greatly.
God Bless! Spirithorse