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General Category => Brag Forum => Topic started by: EIEIO on May 27, 2013, 11:21:51 am
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My sister asked for a portrait of my nephew and his fiance for their November wedding. I stack cut 3 of this pattern in 1/8" BB Ply and mounted two on 1/4" BB Ply painted black - one for the couple and the other for my sister. The 3rd cut will be used as a stencil for spray painting some t-shirts. I'll post some pics of the t-shirts later today.
The frame is cut from 3/4" black walnut, with 1/8" maple splines in the corners, treated with BLO+Mineral Spirits and dried overnight. Portrait and frame have 2 coats of spray lacquer.
FYI - I cut the slots for the corner splines on a 10" table saw with 1/8" kerf blade. If you set the top of the 10" blade to 4 1/32" above the table surface, it will put the 45 degree saw cut at about 1/2" above the table surface. Set the fence 1/4" from the blade. With the frame on end and the outside surface against the fence, push the corner 1" into the blade to get a diagonal cut 1" deep on each side of the corner. The oversized 1/8" splines, cut so the grain runs diagonally through the corner, can be glued into the corners, dried, then trimmed with the table or scroll saw and sanded flat. It makes a strong corner joint and is a nice detail on the frame.
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Nice job Ray, pattern, cutting, and frame.
Pete
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Good cut!
I am impressed with the frame! You did a great job and got very tight miters on the corners.
I have a suggestion or two also.
If at some time you find yourself with too much money in your pocket, ::) you might consider buying a Freud box joint blade set. It consists of two 10" blades and depending on how they are stacked, You can make either a 1/4" kerf or a 3/8" kerf. They are great for cutting splines in larger frames as well as making box joints.
Also, I have been known to make splines across the miter joint on the face or back of the frame. I usually use the 3/8" set up on the back diagonally across the corners for "strength" joints on more plain frames or a 1/4" kerf across the face of the frame for an unusual spline decoration with a contrasting wood like you did.
Anyway, I enjoy making frames almost as much as I do small boxes. ;D A person can get really creative with them.
Rog
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Wow...that came out absolutely perfect. So talented.
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nice work thanks for sharing
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Looks great, nice work. Thanks for sharing with us. :)
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Looks great!
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Very nicely doen project Ray. Thanks for sharing it with us.
DW
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that looks great, I'm sure they will love it! Nicely done!!
Tommy T
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great cutting job and great frame making!!
love the way the walnut looks.
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EIEIO they will love it, you did a really fantastic job.
Marg
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Fantastic job, looks great, thanks for sharing. ;)
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Did you make that frame? I have to say, I'm quite jealous!! I tried making a frame once. What a disaster! I had some really nice 3/4 oak and tried to make a simple frame. I even watch a youtube video on how to make a frame. I dug out my router which I rarely use....it was a NIGHTMARE! That beautiful oak I had is now sitting in the scrap pile. I ended up spending $26 for a plastic frame. I should probably get rid of my router before I get it in my head that I know how to use it (again).
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To make this frame:
I cut this one on the table saw - no router. I had a piece of black walnut 7/8 x 2 x 34". I ripped two stick 3/4" wide, then reduced the 7/8 to 3/4" on the saw. Then set the fence to 1/4" from the blade and cut a 1/8" wide slot 3/8" deep (makes a slot from 1/4" to 3/8" from edge). Then flipped the stick and cut another 1/8" slot on the perpendicular side. That made a 3/8"x3/8" rabbit in one quarter of the stick.
Use a machinist square to set the table saw angle guide to an accurate 45 degrees and cut the corner miters for sides at 12" and 9.5" to fit the 8.5x11 portrait. Glued the corner miters, then set the table saw blade so the top of the saw blade is at 4 1/32" - that puts the 45 degree tangent of the blade at 1/2" above the table. Set the fence back to 1/4" between blade and fence and with the frame on its side push it 1" into the saw blade. That makes an almost-diagonal through the corner that is 1/8" wide, extending 1" along each side of the frame. I had some 1/8" maple left over from one of the sword jobs, so used that for the diagonals in the corners. With the maple grain running diagonal to the walnut, the corners are pretty strong. I used Gorilla wood glue on it - it's pretty strong and set up in 30 minutes.
Anyway, I like the frame. Not very fancy, but the walnut makes a nice contrast to the BB Ply.
BTW - on the back, I had a small rectangle of 1/8" BB ply left over, so it is cut up and used as the brackets to keep the portrait in the frame.
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I do not own a table saw and I am afraid of them. Got hit hard with a piece of wood that went flying from a kick back. That frame you made is really beautiful as is the project itself. Your a true craftsman!
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I do not own a table saw and I am afraid of them. Got hit hard with a piece of wood that went flying from a kick back. That frame you made is really beautiful as is the project itself. Your a true craftsman!
saggioculo,
It is possible to make really nice frames without the use of power tools.
There is a tool called a "miter box" and is used with a hand saw to cut almost any angle you might want. It is especially nice for cutting the 45 degree miters needed for picture frames. Also there are hand planes for cutting shapes and dadoes for the frames, however they can get expensive.
You can buy "frame" stock from a picture frame store or use indoor wood trim like door frame or window frame material at a big box store to get shapes for project frames.
Then again, nothing says that you HAVE to use miters. I've seen some good looking (more rustic) frames done with butt joints and I have even cut frames for smaller projects out of one larger piece of wood on the scroll saw.
I hope you can come up with some way to make "real wood" custom frames for your projects. I HATE PLASTIC FRAMES! :) ;) ;D
Rog
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Nice work. Thanks for sharing with us.