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General Category => General Scroll Saw Talk => Topic started by: Toneman on February 26, 2013, 09:47:06 am
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Ok guys, I need your help and advice! I have only been working with wood for about 10 months and have done all my scrolling with patterns that will fit the wood. Now, I have a request to make a plaque for an large elk rack. Of course, I have to keep the cost down, so, I will be using 3/4" x 12" pine. I don't know the grade, but, it is very smooth and has no knots,but, cost $28.00/8ft. Now, the pattern is 15" x 19" so that means I will need to glue two pieces together. I have never done this,but have goggled it and read a lot of different ways of doing this. I would use 3/4" baltic birch which can be purchased in 5' x 5' pieces, but I have to put a routed edge around it. Now, please give me yall's advice and techniques on this. For instance, how much glue, preparation, etc.,etc. Thanks yall!
Tony,aka,Toneman
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What kind of pine cost $28.00 a board foot? At that price I would use hard wood and it will look better. When I glue to boards together I smear glue all over it and then I use clamps all around the board to make sure it is all glued together. I let it set over night to dry. But if you are in a hurry, after about three hours you can unclamp it and go to work.
gene
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Sorry about listing the price incorrect; it is $28.00 for an 8ft. board, which would be $3.50/ft.
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First you need to joint the pieces so you will have a clean joint line. Spread out some wax paper on top of a clean flat surface. Apply glue and spread evenly. Place your pieces together so that growth rings go in opposite directions and clamp just tight enough to begin squeeze out along joint. Lay a caul on top (use wax paper again) and clamp in place to avoid bowing of your wood. After perhaps 1/2 hour scrape any excess glue off while leaving the clamps in place. Allow glue to cure over night if possible or 3-4 hours.
Hope this helps.
You can use a jointer to get the clean joint line, you can use a router to accomplish this, or a sander, or a hand plane.
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If you want it to last I wouldn't use two 12 inch wide pieces. There is a good chance the will warp over time and spoil your project. It's more trouble, but would work better to use at least three pieces glued together to get your width. If you take all three from the same plank, flip the center one so that the project resists curling with the grain.
You mentioned a router. If you have a router table you can use that to joint the edges if you have no jointer.
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Lowes sells 3/4" glued-up pine planks 16" wide by 48" long. It is 2 boards glued side by side. Don't know if it will work but it is not expensive ($16) and might be worth a look.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_72500-99899-72500_0__?productId=3604974&Ntt=1+x+16+x+48&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3D1%2Bx%2B16%2Bx%2B48&facetInfo= (http://www.lowes.com/pd_72500-99899-72500_0__?productId=3604974&Ntt=1+x+16+x+48&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3D1%2Bx%2B16%2Bx%2B48&facetInfo=)
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Lay a caul on top (use wax paper again) and clamp in place to avoid bowing of your wood.
Dunk please explain caul I looked it up and found nothing to do with woodworking.
Only "caul [kɔːl]
n Anatomy
1. (Life Sciences & Allied Applications / Anatomy) a portion of the amniotic sac sometimes covering a child's head at birth
2. (Life Sciences & Allied Applications / Anatomy) a large fold of peritoneum hanging from the stomach across the intestines; the large omentum
[from Old French cale, back formation from calotte close-fitting cap, of Germanic origin]"
And I dont think that is what you were meaning.
***Merlin***
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"......I would use 3/4" baltic birch which can be purchased in 5' x 5' pieces, but I have to put a routed edge around it. Now, please give me yall's advice and techniques on this....."
Baltic birch plywood will work well with routed edges. I do this when I make plaques.
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Merlin, a caul is another piece of wood that serves to protect the project wood from the clamps and to spread the clamping pressure over a wider area. In this case, it also helps hold the boards being glued together flat and even.
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I used the preglued panels from Lowes to build some rocking horses for the charity event last year on the WoodWhisperer's site. They are a bit on the brittle side.
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Thanks Becky you nailed it.
Here is a great ink on how to make and use cauls...
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/35878/clamping-cauls-the-secret-to-great-glue-ups (http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/35878/clamping-cauls-the-secret-to-great-glue-ups)
One more and there are tons more online. A little more refined.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/cauls.html (http://www.newwoodworker.com/cauls.html)
Finally less refined but quite handy information.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/2010april/cauls.html (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/2010april/cauls.html)
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Thanks Becky, I thought about it later and when I got home looked it again with woodworking in the search bar and found some great info on it from mikes woodworking site.
Cheers ***Merlin***